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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck Turning Question
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<blockquote data-quote="Mikecr" data-source="post: 1099531" data-attributes="member: 1521"><p>Some things with my normal turning:</p><p>-I only turn new/unsized brass, as this best fits turning mandrels, full length.</p><p>-I turn down neck FL and onto shoulders a small bit(my opportunity to mitigate donuts).</p><p>-I do not trim necks first/for turning, or use turning stops. I can easily eyeball ~1/16" onto shoulders which is plenty enough. I trim to correct length only after fireforming.</p><p>-I hold the turner body in my hand(floating) while the case is held and spun by a 'case lathe'.</p><p>-I use Mobil1 for turning lube, and cool the turner mandrel/cutter with a swish & brush in a heavy small bowl of alcohol resting in a larger pan of ice water.</p><p>-After turning I polish the neck a bit with 000 steel wool while it's still on the lathe. This is so I can confirm neck thickness to near .0001".</p><p></p><p>As far as setting, I'm pretty old school trial & error with a feeler gauge and a couple culled cases. Newer turners provide standard incremental adjustments(I use Sinclair's NT-4000), which is nice but no faster really.</p><p>When things are abnormal for turning (up/down sizing, or re-forming neck involved) the trial & error takes a little more effort as I still turn the brass while new/unsized.</p><p></p><p>It's not an exact science, many ways to skin the cat. Luckily, it takes a lot of effort to screw it up</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mikecr, post: 1099531, member: 1521"] Some things with my normal turning: -I only turn new/unsized brass, as this best fits turning mandrels, full length. -I turn down neck FL and onto shoulders a small bit(my opportunity to mitigate donuts). -I do not trim necks first/for turning, or use turning stops. I can easily eyeball ~1/16" onto shoulders which is plenty enough. I trim to correct length only after fireforming. -I hold the turner body in my hand(floating) while the case is held and spun by a 'case lathe'. -I use Mobil1 for turning lube, and cool the turner mandrel/cutter with a swish & brush in a heavy small bowl of alcohol resting in a larger pan of ice water. -After turning I polish the neck a bit with 000 steel wool while it's still on the lathe. This is so I can confirm neck thickness to near .0001". As far as setting, I'm pretty old school trial & error with a feeler gauge and a couple culled cases. Newer turners provide standard incremental adjustments(I use Sinclair's NT-4000), which is nice but no faster really. When things are abnormal for turning (up/down sizing, or re-forming neck involved) the trial & error takes a little more effort as I still turn the brass while new/unsized. It's not an exact science, many ways to skin the cat. Luckily, it takes a lot of effort to screw it up [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Neck Turning Question
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