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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck turning & annealing question
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<blockquote data-quote="woods" data-source="post: 268663" data-attributes="member: 6042"><p>Well, personally I've been married so long that one sentence with "moron" in it didn't even break the surface.</p><p></p><p>Call me crazy, but I kinda look forward to neck turning new cases. It does take some time but it is not something that needs total attention like powder charging cases. Just set it up and watch a movie while doing it. The plastic shell holder works better for me if I take a small pair of pliers on the knob and tighten it down good onto the case head. Kinda boogers up the knob but it is still there after several hundred cases.</p><p></p><p>I like to turn by hand because I can feel the amount of resistance and know when I have made a smooth cut all the way. Most of the turning I have to do is for tight neck custom chambers and some of the brass has to go from .015"+ to .0125" which is a lot of brass coming off. I tried locking the case in a Zip Trim and turning but it would chatter a little and stress the whole process more. Turning slowly by hand will keep you out of trouble. </p><p></p><p>One advantage of the Forster is that they have neck reamers that have the same size lock stud</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0726.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>the neck reaming mandrels are .003" over caliber so if you set your neck clearance up at .003" then after firing the reamers fit right in. That will get rid of any do-nuts or inconsistancies at the neck/shoulder junction. You can also inside neck ream and outside neck turn at the same time to clean up the outside one last time</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0716.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>On this case, reaming and cleaning up the outside took the neck thickness from .0125"</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0705.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>to a very consistant .012"</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0718.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The most detrimental effect of outside turning or reamins is that it boogers up the inside neck surface pretty bad</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0721.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>so I clean them up with some tight fitting steel wool on a 22 caliber brush</p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0720.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>to make them somewhat smoother. Trying to figure out a way to get some Flitz appied to that inside surface and polish them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="woods, post: 268663, member: 6042"] Well, personally I've been married so long that one sentence with "moron" in it didn't even break the surface. Call me crazy, but I kinda look forward to neck turning new cases. It does take some time but it is not something that needs total attention like powder charging cases. Just set it up and watch a movie while doing it. The plastic shell holder works better for me if I take a small pair of pliers on the knob and tighten it down good onto the case head. Kinda boogers up the knob but it is still there after several hundred cases. I like to turn by hand because I can feel the amount of resistance and know when I have made a smooth cut all the way. Most of the turning I have to do is for tight neck custom chambers and some of the brass has to go from .015"+ to .0125" which is a lot of brass coming off. I tried locking the case in a Zip Trim and turning but it would chatter a little and stress the whole process more. Turning slowly by hand will keep you out of trouble. One advantage of the Forster is that they have neck reamers that have the same size lock stud [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0726.jpg[/IMG] the neck reaming mandrels are .003" over caliber so if you set your neck clearance up at .003" then after firing the reamers fit right in. That will get rid of any do-nuts or inconsistancies at the neck/shoulder junction. You can also inside neck ream and outside neck turn at the same time to clean up the outside one last time [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0716.jpg[/IMG] On this case, reaming and cleaning up the outside took the neck thickness from .0125" [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0705.jpg[/IMG] to a very consistant .012" [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0718.jpg[/IMG] The most detrimental effect of outside turning or reamins is that it boogers up the inside neck surface pretty bad [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0721.jpg[/IMG] so I clean them up with some tight fitting steel wool on a 22 caliber brush [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE PREP/DSCN0720.jpg[/IMG] to make them somewhat smoother. Trying to figure out a way to get some Flitz appied to that inside surface and polish them. [/QUOTE]
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Neck turning & annealing question
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