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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck turning & annealing question
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<blockquote data-quote="woods" data-source="post: 267881" data-attributes="member: 6042"><p>The best time to outside neck turn is before they are ever fired. The first concern is getting the right inside neck diameter for the neck turning mandrel. That will depend upon which turner you got. The K & M has an expander that will expand the necks to right diameter. For my Forster turner I use a Lee Collet Neck Sizer to get the necks right for the mandrel.</p><p></p><p>There is some info, I think it came with my Forster turner, that says that turning a slight bit into the shoulder will help prevent do-nut development. I do that as shown here on a 338RUM </p><p></p><p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0592.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now I feel a little skeered about cutting away shoulder brass but it has never created a problem. I have not been able to verify the do-nut thing. I have only developed a do-nut on my 280AI (which I turn for also) and only with Nosler 280AI brass. However I haven't turned any of that particular brass and have started using the regular Nosler 280 rem brass for my 280AI and have not seen do-nuts there yet.</p><p></p><p>IMO, there is an advantage to turning previously fired brass, or any brass, because it make the neck brass consistant. Consistant neck brass can keep the thicker side of the brass from offering more resistance to the bullet being seated and thus canting the bullet. Can't prove that other than my turned brass has less runout (measured on the ogive) than unturned brass.</p><p></p><p>You will really need that steel wool on the inside of the necks after turning because the mandrel will scar up the inside neck surface.</p><p></p><p>For annealing, you're on your own.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="woods, post: 267881, member: 6042"] The best time to outside neck turn is before they are ever fired. The first concern is getting the right inside neck diameter for the neck turning mandrel. That will depend upon which turner you got. The K & M has an expander that will expand the necks to right diameter. For my Forster turner I use a Lee Collet Neck Sizer to get the necks right for the mandrel. There is some info, I think it came with my Forster turner, that says that turning a slight bit into the shoulder will help prevent do-nut development. I do that as shown here on a 338RUM [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/CASE%20PREP/DSCN0592.jpg[/IMG] Now I feel a little skeered about cutting away shoulder brass but it has never created a problem. I have not been able to verify the do-nut thing. I have only developed a do-nut on my 280AI (which I turn for also) and only with Nosler 280AI brass. However I haven't turned any of that particular brass and have started using the regular Nosler 280 rem brass for my 280AI and have not seen do-nuts there yet. IMO, there is an advantage to turning previously fired brass, or any brass, because it make the neck brass consistant. Consistant neck brass can keep the thicker side of the brass from offering more resistance to the bullet being seated and thus canting the bullet. Can't prove that other than my turned brass has less runout (measured on the ogive) than unturned brass. You will really need that steel wool on the inside of the necks after turning because the mandrel will scar up the inside neck surface. For annealing, you're on your own. [/QUOTE]
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Neck turning & annealing question
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