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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck Sizing
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<blockquote data-quote="AZShooter" data-source="post: 827989" data-attributes="member: 5219"><p>I think this thread is going to be very confusing for anyone new to reloading. I am going to add some explanations that hopefully will help.</p><p></p><p>First of all I suggest to anyone who is new to this activity to acquire a Nosler or Hornady reloading guide and read the chapter on hand loading. </p><p></p><p>Most beginners do quite well with standard factory two die sets that have a full length (FL) sizer and a seater die. </p><p></p><p>The concept of sizing the brass is twofold. The necks expand to release the bullet so they have to be reduced in diameter(sized) to hold the next bullet. The body will lengthen and expand in diameter to conform to the chamber. There is some spring back after initial expansion so the brass can be removed from the rifle's chamber but some reduction in case dimensions (sizing) may be necessary for the case to easily fit back into the chamber. This is especially important with an autoloading rifle. If the case is too large the auto won't function properly. </p><p></p><p>Typical FL dies are designed to accommodate cases made by different manufacturers. Cases vary in neck wall thickness. The upper part of a FL die is made small enough to size down even the thinnest production case. This requires a sizer ball to open up any case neck so that the inside diameter will allow the seating of a bullet. The typical inside dimension of a FL sized case neck is .003" smaller than bullet diameter. This is a compromise in neck tension which usually works well with rifles that will hold some loaded rounds in a magazine. If the tension is too loose recoil could cause the bullet to move in the case. </p><p></p><p>Removing a sizer ball from a FL sizer die and sizing any part of the neck would make it too tight with even with the thinnest production brass. If a loader were to try to seat a bullet the stresses on the case would cause it to deform creating excessive runout or in simpler terms cause the bullet to be crooked in the case. The bullet would then enter the rifling uncentered and deformation would occur. This would cause inaccuracy. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Setting up a FL sizer can be confusing. RCBS's literature says to screw in the die till it touches the shell holder. While this would work the brass is usually sized too much. This will "overwork" the brass and with the next shot the brass will lengthen to fit the chamber. Repeated sizing in this manner will cause the cases to lengthen so they have to be trimmed often. Eventually the brass will thin out just in front of the web area causing case head separation. The best approach is to PARTIAL FULL LENGTH size. This is accomplished by turning the die several turns away from the shell holder and sizing the brass. The brass will most likely not fit easily in the rifle chamber. Lower the die part of a turn and repeat. Continue to lower FL die till it sizes the brass enough for either a fit with slight bolt closing resistance or one that allows you to close the bolt without resistance but no more. There is a fine line between the two settings. Once you find that spot you can repeat it by using feeler gauges to measure the gap between the shell holder and end of die body. I like to keep those feeler gauges in the die box for the next time I setup. Some loaders prefer to set the lock ring but sometimes they can move on the die. Your choice. </p><p></p><p>There is a term that was thrown around in the first few posts called partial neck sizing. I think that was accidentally altered from the usual practice called partial FL sizing. I have been handloading for almost 30 yrs and never heard of partial neck sizing. </p><p></p><p>Bushing dies do not size all of the neck. A small portion of the neck just above the shoulder remains untouched. This might be considered a partial neck sizing but that is the nature of the die in the way it works. I have not read of anyone adjusting a bushing neck sizing die to only size part of the neck but I suppose someone has tried it. </p><p></p><p>If a beginner wants to use a bushing die then there are two types. One is called a bushing die the other a FL/bushing die. The FL/bushing die makes the process easier but it might not serve the user as well as separating the neck sizing from body sizing. As was mentioned above there are body dies that will only size the body. This style of die reduces body taper and can move the shoulder back for easy chambering just like the FL die. </p><p></p><p>I wrote the above to help anyone new to handloading. There is much reading to be done and questions to ask. Many of us here are very willing to help others learn this fun and rewarding activity. Hope this helps.</p><p></p><p>Ross</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 827989, member: 5219"] I think this thread is going to be very confusing for anyone new to reloading. I am going to add some explanations that hopefully will help. First of all I suggest to anyone who is new to this activity to acquire a Nosler or Hornady reloading guide and read the chapter on hand loading. Most beginners do quite well with standard factory two die sets that have a full length (FL) sizer and a seater die. The concept of sizing the brass is twofold. The necks expand to release the bullet so they have to be reduced in diameter(sized) to hold the next bullet. The body will lengthen and expand in diameter to conform to the chamber. There is some spring back after initial expansion so the brass can be removed from the rifle's chamber but some reduction in case dimensions (sizing) may be necessary for the case to easily fit back into the chamber. This is especially important with an autoloading rifle. If the case is too large the auto won't function properly. Typical FL dies are designed to accommodate cases made by different manufacturers. Cases vary in neck wall thickness. The upper part of a FL die is made small enough to size down even the thinnest production case. This requires a sizer ball to open up any case neck so that the inside diameter will allow the seating of a bullet. The typical inside dimension of a FL sized case neck is .003" smaller than bullet diameter. This is a compromise in neck tension which usually works well with rifles that will hold some loaded rounds in a magazine. If the tension is too loose recoil could cause the bullet to move in the case. Removing a sizer ball from a FL sizer die and sizing any part of the neck would make it too tight with even with the thinnest production brass. If a loader were to try to seat a bullet the stresses on the case would cause it to deform creating excessive runout or in simpler terms cause the bullet to be crooked in the case. The bullet would then enter the rifling uncentered and deformation would occur. This would cause inaccuracy. Setting up a FL sizer can be confusing. RCBS's literature says to screw in the die till it touches the shell holder. While this would work the brass is usually sized too much. This will "overwork" the brass and with the next shot the brass will lengthen to fit the chamber. Repeated sizing in this manner will cause the cases to lengthen so they have to be trimmed often. Eventually the brass will thin out just in front of the web area causing case head separation. The best approach is to PARTIAL FULL LENGTH size. This is accomplished by turning the die several turns away from the shell holder and sizing the brass. The brass will most likely not fit easily in the rifle chamber. Lower the die part of a turn and repeat. Continue to lower FL die till it sizes the brass enough for either a fit with slight bolt closing resistance or one that allows you to close the bolt without resistance but no more. There is a fine line between the two settings. Once you find that spot you can repeat it by using feeler gauges to measure the gap between the shell holder and end of die body. I like to keep those feeler gauges in the die box for the next time I setup. Some loaders prefer to set the lock ring but sometimes they can move on the die. Your choice. There is a term that was thrown around in the first few posts called partial neck sizing. I think that was accidentally altered from the usual practice called partial FL sizing. I have been handloading for almost 30 yrs and never heard of partial neck sizing. Bushing dies do not size all of the neck. A small portion of the neck just above the shoulder remains untouched. This might be considered a partial neck sizing but that is the nature of the die in the way it works. I have not read of anyone adjusting a bushing neck sizing die to only size part of the neck but I suppose someone has tried it. If a beginner wants to use a bushing die then there are two types. One is called a bushing die the other a FL/bushing die. The FL/bushing die makes the process easier but it might not serve the user as well as separating the neck sizing from body sizing. As was mentioned above there are body dies that will only size the body. This style of die reduces body taper and can move the shoulder back for easy chambering just like the FL die. I wrote the above to help anyone new to handloading. There is much reading to be done and questions to ask. Many of us here are very willing to help others learn this fun and rewarding activity. Hope this helps. Ross [/QUOTE]
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