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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Neck sizing question...
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<blockquote data-quote="AZShooter" data-source="post: 972565" data-attributes="member: 5219"><p>It would appear that you are doing a good job in working with what you have. </p><p></p><p>Some thoughts:</p><p></p><p> You said you have measured neck wall thicknesses and they ranged from .014" to .015"? If you use the same bushing you will be varying the neck tension. It could cause larger groups at longer distances. </p><p></p><p>In addition to this the chamber of your rifle appears to have a generous neck clearance because you have to reduce the neck diameter of the fired brass down to .006" or .007"</p><p></p><p>IMO bushing dies work best with a combination of neck turned brass and a tighter chamber neck. Most custom reamers are spec'ed out with tighter neck dimensions so there is minimal sizing of brass for longer life. </p><p></p><p></p><p>There is a reason why the factory chamber neck is a bit on the loose side. It will allow for a variety of brands of brass with different wall thicknesses to be fired without the thickest ones having bullet release issues.</p><p> </p><p> The traditional FL sizer with a sizer ball is used for basic handloading for the same reason. It will take any manufactured brass and size it down then open up the neck for the proper bullet tension. The typical RCBS die is around .003" neck tension . </p><p></p><p>If you find you have issues with your accuracy I suggest you buy one of the FL die dies that uses a sizer ball and give it a try. </p><p></p><p>One more thing. If you decide to turn your necks so you will end up with consistent neck tension the brass will have a shortened life, unless you anneal often. Why? The brass will be over worked through expansion during firing in the "sloppy chamber neck" then sized enough to hold a bullet. </p><p></p><p>As you can see there are two different approaches to handloading. IMO the bushing die approach is best used with a "tuned" package of specified chamber neck dimensions in combination with turned necks, while FL sizer dies with a ball are used with factory chambers and any brass available. </p><p></p><p>It took me many years to get this all sorted out. I split my share of necks because I turned them and had factory chambers. Also chased my tail with bullet jump vs magazine lengths till I realized I would never ever use a factory chamber again nor would I use any old reamer. I spec out my reamers. It is just a higher level of performance and it costs far more but the rewards are greater too. Hope this wasn't too much...just trying to help you get a grasp of this fascinating pursuit called handloading.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 972565, member: 5219"] It would appear that you are doing a good job in working with what you have. Some thoughts: You said you have measured neck wall thicknesses and they ranged from .014" to .015"? If you use the same bushing you will be varying the neck tension. It could cause larger groups at longer distances. In addition to this the chamber of your rifle appears to have a generous neck clearance because you have to reduce the neck diameter of the fired brass down to .006" or .007" IMO bushing dies work best with a combination of neck turned brass and a tighter chamber neck. Most custom reamers are spec'ed out with tighter neck dimensions so there is minimal sizing of brass for longer life. There is a reason why the factory chamber neck is a bit on the loose side. It will allow for a variety of brands of brass with different wall thicknesses to be fired without the thickest ones having bullet release issues. The traditional FL sizer with a sizer ball is used for basic handloading for the same reason. It will take any manufactured brass and size it down then open up the neck for the proper bullet tension. The typical RCBS die is around .003" neck tension . If you find you have issues with your accuracy I suggest you buy one of the FL die dies that uses a sizer ball and give it a try. One more thing. If you decide to turn your necks so you will end up with consistent neck tension the brass will have a shortened life, unless you anneal often. Why? The brass will be over worked through expansion during firing in the "sloppy chamber neck" then sized enough to hold a bullet. As you can see there are two different approaches to handloading. IMO the bushing die approach is best used with a "tuned" package of specified chamber neck dimensions in combination with turned necks, while FL sizer dies with a ball are used with factory chambers and any brass available. It took me many years to get this all sorted out. I split my share of necks because I turned them and had factory chambers. Also chased my tail with bullet jump vs magazine lengths till I realized I would never ever use a factory chamber again nor would I use any old reamer. I spec out my reamers. It is just a higher level of performance and it costs far more but the rewards are greater too. Hope this wasn't too much...just trying to help you get a grasp of this fascinating pursuit called handloading. [/QUOTE]
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