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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
My reloading process.
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<blockquote data-quote="AJ Peacock" data-source="post: 279357" data-attributes="member: 4885"><p>1) Nope, only for obvious flaws. I sort my brass by weight <u>after</u> they have been fired and preped. I keep real heavy or light brass and use it for other things (foulers, random shooting etc).</p><p></p><p>2) Depending on the cartridge, sometimes I'll square up the mouths with a trimmer as I mentioned in the initial post. But I'll always resize before I trim (then deburr again).</p><p></p><p>3) I measure the necks with a ball mic and will occasionally sort out ones that are more than .001" difference side to side. To be honest, I have several rifles that can shoot more accurately than I can. I haven't been able to tell any difference in the neck wall thickness stuff with my rifles. I've neck turned to make everything perfect and still get the old sub 1/2moa group when I do my part. But I only have hunting scopes on my rifles, none of that 36x ... stuff that the target boys use, so I'll probably always stay around the 1/2moa crowd. On the other hand, I've experienced <u><strong>really bad </strong></u>brass that not only had a really thin side, it was also impossible turn into straight ammo. I use my run-out gauge to sort my shells and then will sometimes check the cartridges that had run-out after I shoot them (use the mark on the primer) for thick/thin/uneven necks and toss them if I'm convinced that is why they where bad.</p><p></p><p>4) If you are going to resize with an expander ball, then it is tough without bushing dies, because normal dies will resize the neck too far down and you will have WAY too much neck tension on your bullet. I like the bushing dies because they give me a bit more flexibility with my sizing and neck tension. It's yet another variable that can be pondered when it's too cold to shoot outside.</p><p></p><p>Hope this all helps,</p><p>AJ</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AJ Peacock, post: 279357, member: 4885"] 1) Nope, only for obvious flaws. I sort my brass by weight [U]after[/U] they have been fired and preped. I keep real heavy or light brass and use it for other things (foulers, random shooting etc). 2) Depending on the cartridge, sometimes I'll square up the mouths with a trimmer as I mentioned in the initial post. But I'll always resize before I trim (then deburr again). 3) I measure the necks with a ball mic and will occasionally sort out ones that are more than .001" difference side to side. To be honest, I have several rifles that can shoot more accurately than I can. I haven't been able to tell any difference in the neck wall thickness stuff with my rifles. I've neck turned to make everything perfect and still get the old sub 1/2moa group when I do my part. But I only have hunting scopes on my rifles, none of that 36x ... stuff that the target boys use, so I'll probably always stay around the 1/2moa crowd. On the other hand, I've experienced [U][B]really bad [/B][/U]brass that not only had a really thin side, it was also impossible turn into straight ammo. I use my run-out gauge to sort my shells and then will sometimes check the cartridges that had run-out after I shoot them (use the mark on the primer) for thick/thin/uneven necks and toss them if I'm convinced that is why they where bad. 4) If you are going to resize with an expander ball, then it is tough without bushing dies, because normal dies will resize the neck too far down and you will have WAY too much neck tension on your bullet. I like the bushing dies because they give me a bit more flexibility with my sizing and neck tension. It's yet another variable that can be pondered when it's too cold to shoot outside. Hope this all helps, AJ [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
My reloading process.
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