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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
My Brain hurts....
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<blockquote data-quote="FAL Shot" data-source="post: 441935" data-attributes="member: 27328"><p>Dave,</p><p> </p><p>Regarding powders, I usually get the best results from powders that fill the case to over 90% capacity. If a powder loads results in much less than 90% capacity, flashover will cause inconsistency and possible detonation if a particularly light load sneaks through your reloading process.</p><p> </p><p>I weigh bullets and brass to tight tolerances of plus or minus half a grain. As a final check I weigh all reloaded cartridges. If there is a reloaded cartridge lighter or heavier minus or plus a grain of center, that is a no-go reload, as only a powder load screwup could make it vary by more than a grain.</p><p> </p><p>I use military ball surplus for break-in. Make sure it's good safe stuff. Avoid anything from a hot climate (Brazil, Israel ,Egypt, etc.). FNM has been very, very good for me. Some of my stuff is new, never issued, bought by the case. 200-500 rounds is a good break-in amount for standard velocity cartridges like a .308 Win.....because expected barrel lifespan is 20,000 rounds and that amount for break-in is only 1% to 2.5% of total barrel lifespan.</p><p> </p><p>A properly broken-in (smoothed out and polished) barrel IS more accurate since fouling is reduced and fouling reduces accuracy. In the case of a .22LR shooting lead ammo, shooting it will almost never break-in the barrel. You have to keep the lead cleaned out and polish the bore with something like Remington 40-X bore cleaner.</p><p> </p><p>Also, don't overdo it when cleaning out carbon, You want carbon in the pits of the bore, as copper can't stick to carbon. A certain amount of carbon makes your barrel smoother and resistant to copper fouling. M-Pro-7 takes out excess carbon with almost no work at all, while having almost no smell and being nontoxic. Use M-Pro 7 lube in the bore when the gun is sitting unused, and pull a bore snake through it before shooting. Together, the cleaner and lube makes it much harder for fouling to get a firm hold on the metal. I never use a chemical copper solvent, as it is unnecessary when using M-Pro 7 properly.</p><p> </p><p>Phil</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FAL Shot, post: 441935, member: 27328"] Dave, Regarding powders, I usually get the best results from powders that fill the case to over 90% capacity. If a powder loads results in much less than 90% capacity, flashover will cause inconsistency and possible detonation if a particularly light load sneaks through your reloading process. I weigh bullets and brass to tight tolerances of plus or minus half a grain. As a final check I weigh all reloaded cartridges. If there is a reloaded cartridge lighter or heavier minus or plus a grain of center, that is a no-go reload, as only a powder load screwup could make it vary by more than a grain. I use military ball surplus for break-in. Make sure it's good safe stuff. Avoid anything from a hot climate (Brazil, Israel ,Egypt, etc.). FNM has been very, very good for me. Some of my stuff is new, never issued, bought by the case. 200-500 rounds is a good break-in amount for standard velocity cartridges like a .308 Win.....because expected barrel lifespan is 20,000 rounds and that amount for break-in is only 1% to 2.5% of total barrel lifespan. A properly broken-in (smoothed out and polished) barrel IS more accurate since fouling is reduced and fouling reduces accuracy. In the case of a .22LR shooting lead ammo, shooting it will almost never break-in the barrel. You have to keep the lead cleaned out and polish the bore with something like Remington 40-X bore cleaner. Also, don't overdo it when cleaning out carbon, You want carbon in the pits of the bore, as copper can't stick to carbon. A certain amount of carbon makes your barrel smoother and resistant to copper fouling. M-Pro-7 takes out excess carbon with almost no work at all, while having almost no smell and being nontoxic. Use M-Pro 7 lube in the bore when the gun is sitting unused, and pull a bore snake through it before shooting. Together, the cleaner and lube makes it much harder for fouling to get a firm hold on the metal. I never use a chemical copper solvent, as it is unnecessary when using M-Pro 7 properly. Phil [/QUOTE]
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