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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
My .300wsm Build
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 221986" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Ryan,</p><p></p><p>I think you are well on your way to having a nice piece when your done.</p><p></p><p>There's more than a few guys out there "truing" threads with nothing more than a tap that has a long penis sticking out the front of it.</p><p></p><p>Good job for doing it right.</p><p></p><p>Are you going to use a pinned recoil lug? I really like these due to the fact that they locate the recoil lug in the same place every time. No tools touching the receiver during final assembly is also nice, especially on actions that have been coated with something. (prone to scratches and nicks)</p><p></p><p>Have you considered an external bolt release? The one Nesika makes will drop right in and it's not too expensive. It won't match though as its made from SS. It sure makes for an easy way to drop a bolt out of a gun. Just a thought.</p><p></p><p>Scope holes. 8-40's are nice. If you can though, use that arbor and indicate the action CL off of it and then mill your holes for the screws instead of just chasing the existing ones with a drill. Then you KNOW your on bore CL when you put the bases on.</p><p></p><p>I like a big chamfer on my recoil lugs so that I can use a healthy radius on my barrel tennons. Just a personal thing, I seriously doubt it really does much. </p><p></p><p>When you fit the barrel, how much breech clearance do you plan to run?</p><p></p><p>Do you have access to a CNC with a 4th axis? Helical fluted bolts look cool as hell and they do help with giving grit a place to go when out in the field. Helps to keep the action from lapping itself to bits. Just an idea. . .</p><p></p><p>Anyways.</p><p></p><p>Nice job.</p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p><p></p><p>~C</p><p></p><p></p><p>Chad Dixon</p><p>Gunmaker</p><p>LongRifles, Inc. (Coming Soon)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 221986, member: 7449"] Ryan, I think you are well on your way to having a nice piece when your done. There's more than a few guys out there "truing" threads with nothing more than a tap that has a long penis sticking out the front of it. Good job for doing it right. Are you going to use a pinned recoil lug? I really like these due to the fact that they locate the recoil lug in the same place every time. No tools touching the receiver during final assembly is also nice, especially on actions that have been coated with something. (prone to scratches and nicks) Have you considered an external bolt release? The one Nesika makes will drop right in and it's not too expensive. It won't match though as its made from SS. It sure makes for an easy way to drop a bolt out of a gun. Just a thought. Scope holes. 8-40's are nice. If you can though, use that arbor and indicate the action CL off of it and then mill your holes for the screws instead of just chasing the existing ones with a drill. Then you KNOW your on bore CL when you put the bases on. I like a big chamfer on my recoil lugs so that I can use a healthy radius on my barrel tennons. Just a personal thing, I seriously doubt it really does much. When you fit the barrel, how much breech clearance do you plan to run? Do you have access to a CNC with a 4th axis? Helical fluted bolts look cool as hell and they do help with giving grit a place to go when out in the field. Helps to keep the action from lapping itself to bits. Just an idea. . . Anyways. Nice job. Good luck. ~C Chad Dixon Gunmaker LongRifles, Inc. (Coming Soon) [/QUOTE]
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My .300wsm Build
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