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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
My 300 Win Mag Sendero
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<blockquote data-quote="royinidaho" data-source="post: 414726" data-attributes="member: 2011"><p>Hey Mr. Bishop,</p><p></p><p>Focus, Focus, Focus. Turrets and stuff are nifty only after you get her shooting well enough and come up with the drop chart.</p><p></p><p>The bullet settling in (going to sleep) has more to do with the bullet length than caliber. Generally, kind of, the longer the bullet the longer it may take to 'settle in".</p><p></p><p>If it were me, I'd shoot the 300 Win no closer than 200 yards. But I shoot every thing @ 200 yards except the rain bow shooting 338s which I zero at 300.</p><p></p><p>If shooting around 1 inch (1 MOA) @ 100 yards you're only 1/2 MOA off of center Point of Aim (POA) or 1" @ 200, 1.5" @ 300 and 2" at 400. That should explain you kill success. So what's wrong with that???</p><p></p><p>There have been suggestions posted above regarding simple accuracy improvement methods.</p><p></p><p>The first, and easiest would be to "float" the barrel. Float mean you can run a business card from forearm to recoil lug through the barrel channel.</p><p></p><p>If you take the rifle apart you'll see two raised spots, one of either side of center, at the front of the barrel channel. To free float remove these. With that load (90 bucks a box <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite11" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":rolleyes:" />) groups will certainly move their Point of Impact (POI) and may be larger, smaller or the same. Probably smaller though. But just probably.</p><p></p><p>Here's a nifty trick: </p><p></p><p>Get one of these things ($9.99 @ Harbor Freight) + a dial indicator. Better would be to borrow one.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /> (Tape the bottom w/masking tape to keep from marring the barrel.</p><p>\<img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/royinidaho/image_1450.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>After removing the pressure points from the stock use this and the dial indicator to check the bedding.</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">With the rifle vertical on the recoil pad mount the gizmo to the bottom of the barrel with the arm of the dial indicator resting on the forearm somewhere near the sling swivel stud. NOTE: This may take two people and be careful of the hanging lamp above the kitchen table (where this process is usually performed.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite11" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":rolleyes:" />)</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">When set up, alternately tighten and loosen the action mounting screws. If there is much (any to some of us) movement (.003" or 0.004"shown on the dial indicator Pillar Bedding may be in order. The reading is an indication of the stress exerted on the action by improper bedding. (With the pressure points NOT removed you'll get plenty of indication of stock flexing.)</li> </ul><p>Another interesting thing to do is to loosen or remove both action mounting screws and see if the barreled action can be slid back and forth in the stock. If there is movement and you're gonna shot before bedding, hold the rifle vertical or otherwise ensure the recoil lug is hard against wood as you begin to tighten the mounting screws. (Always use a proper fitting screw driver and don't try to twist the screws off. Only 65 inch pounds of force is recommended by many. I have no idea of how much 65 inch pounds is so I make it 'plenty' tight......</p><p></p><p>Oh, and one more thing (I'm on a roll here<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite11" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":rolleyes:" />) Ensure that the action mounting screws are NOT touching the stock. I do this by drilling the holes a couple of sizes larger.</p><p></p><p>Have fun but holey cow step a couple of steps away from the 90 bucks a box stuff. That's mighty 'spensive brass.<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="royinidaho, post: 414726, member: 2011"] Hey Mr. Bishop, Focus, Focus, Focus. Turrets and stuff are nifty only after you get her shooting well enough and come up with the drop chart. The bullet settling in (going to sleep) has more to do with the bullet length than caliber. Generally, kind of, the longer the bullet the longer it may take to 'settle in". If it were me, I'd shoot the 300 Win no closer than 200 yards. But I shoot every thing @ 200 yards except the rain bow shooting 338s which I zero at 300. If shooting around 1 inch (1 MOA) @ 100 yards you're only 1/2 MOA off of center Point of Aim (POA) or 1" @ 200, 1.5" @ 300 and 2" at 400. That should explain you kill success. So what's wrong with that??? There have been suggestions posted above regarding simple accuracy improvement methods. The first, and easiest would be to "float" the barrel. Float mean you can run a business card from forearm to recoil lug through the barrel channel. If you take the rifle apart you'll see two raised spots, one of either side of center, at the front of the barrel channel. To free float remove these. With that load (90 bucks a box :rolleyes:) groups will certainly move their Point of Impact (POI) and may be larger, smaller or the same. Probably smaller though. But just probably. Here's a nifty trick: Get one of these things ($9.99 @ Harbor Freight) + a dial indicator. Better would be to borrow one.:D (Tape the bottom w/masking tape to keep from marring the barrel. \[IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/royinidaho/image_1450.jpg[/IMG] After removing the pressure points from the stock use this and the dial indicator to check the bedding. [LIST] [*]With the rifle vertical on the recoil pad mount the gizmo to the bottom of the barrel with the arm of the dial indicator resting on the forearm somewhere near the sling swivel stud. NOTE: This may take two people and be careful of the hanging lamp above the kitchen table (where this process is usually performed.:rolleyes:) [*]When set up, alternately tighten and loosen the action mounting screws. If there is much (any to some of us) movement (.003" or 0.004"shown on the dial indicator Pillar Bedding may be in order. The reading is an indication of the stress exerted on the action by improper bedding. (With the pressure points NOT removed you'll get plenty of indication of stock flexing.) [/LIST] Another interesting thing to do is to loosen or remove both action mounting screws and see if the barreled action can be slid back and forth in the stock. If there is movement and you're gonna shot before bedding, hold the rifle vertical or otherwise ensure the recoil lug is hard against wood as you begin to tighten the mounting screws. (Always use a proper fitting screw driver and don't try to twist the screws off. Only 65 inch pounds of force is recommended by many. I have no idea of how much 65 inch pounds is so I make it 'plenty' tight...... Oh, and one more thing (I'm on a roll here:rolleyes:) Ensure that the action mounting screws are NOT touching the stock. I do this by drilling the holes a couple of sizes larger. Have fun but holey cow step a couple of steps away from the 90 bucks a box stuff. That's mighty 'spensive brass.:) [/QUOTE]
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My 300 Win Mag Sendero
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