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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Muzzle brake cleaning
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<blockquote data-quote="jrock" data-source="post: 2051821" data-attributes="member: 78569"><p>I tried using Simple Green on brakes. I spray it on heavy and clean the rest of the gun. The carbon seems to soak it up and loosen. Most of the carbon wipes out easily. I have an ultrasonic cleaner but haven't used it to clean brakes. </p><p></p><p>I also have a rifle where the brake was over timed. I made a .001 thick washer out of shim stock. It was too thick and when I torqued the brake, the washer would tare. Peal washers tend to be too thick per layer to retime a brake by a few degrees. For a 24 tip thread, 1 degree equals 0.0001" of tenon length. I'll have to try the plastic bag idea if I ever take the brake off. </p><p></p><p>On machining, I try to be just short of 'timed' on the lathe. That way I can use antiseize to squeak up on it afterwards. To torque, I use a punch through a port and twist by hand. That way, I "think" I am staying below a stress level that may cause accuracy issues. The brakes seem to stay on that way. On the opposite hand, if I time the brake perfectly on the lathe, I use blue thread locker with hand tight torque. I can take it off and put it back on in the same way and have no issues with retiming. Overall, I think timing a brake on the lathe is an experienced feel thing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jrock, post: 2051821, member: 78569"] I tried using Simple Green on brakes. I spray it on heavy and clean the rest of the gun. The carbon seems to soak it up and loosen. Most of the carbon wipes out easily. I have an ultrasonic cleaner but haven't used it to clean brakes. I also have a rifle where the brake was over timed. I made a .001 thick washer out of shim stock. It was too thick and when I torqued the brake, the washer would tare. Peal washers tend to be too thick per layer to retime a brake by a few degrees. For a 24 tip thread, 1 degree equals 0.0001" of tenon length. I'll have to try the plastic bag idea if I ever take the brake off. On machining, I try to be just short of 'timed' on the lathe. That way I can use antiseize to squeak up on it afterwards. To torque, I use a punch through a port and twist by hand. That way, I "think" I am staying below a stress level that may cause accuracy issues. The brakes seem to stay on that way. On the opposite hand, if I time the brake perfectly on the lathe, I use blue thread locker with hand tight torque. I can take it off and put it back on in the same way and have no issues with retiming. Overall, I think timing a brake on the lathe is an experienced feel thing. [/QUOTE]
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Muzzle brake cleaning
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