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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
moly and/or boron bullets hunting ?
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<blockquote data-quote="sambo3006" data-source="post: 130116" data-attributes="member: 2740"><p>This topic has popped up before. Someone--I think it might have been Bart B posted a link to the MSDS sheet for molybdenum disulfide (moly) and it is inert if I recall correctly. Please don't take this as the final word, though. I have consumed lots of venison killed by moly coated bullets to no apparent ill effect. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif </p><p></p><p>Moly is also supposed to not adhere to itself so theoretically there should be no fouling problem. I believe moly was first used as an industrial high temp lubricant.</p><p></p><p>Moly coating is easily applied with a tumbler. I got my kit from Midway about 6 years ago and still have lots of moly left. You just wash the bullets with a degreasing soap such as dish soap and then dry the bullets. Use gloves so you don't get oil from your skin on the bullets. Then just put them in a dedicated moly tumbler bowl with some moly and presto! In about an hour you have your own moly coated bullets.</p><p></p><p>You lose some of the moly coating on the bullet ogive when you seat it in the case, so I don't really know how much benefit you get. I have just been coating all my bullets for several years and see no reason to scrub the moly out of my barrels.</p><p></p><p>I don't shoot a huge volume of rounds in my rifles, but all I do after shooting is run a dry patch through the barrel and if it won't be shot again soon I run an oily patch through the barrel. I then run a dry patch through the next time before I shoot. I haven't noticed any significant copper fouling in my barrels and no loss of accuracy or pitting over several years time.</p><p></p><p>Having said that, I am planning on putting together a premium barreled 300RUM and I do not plan to moly coat the bullets. I will follow the proper break in procedure for the barrel and that should eliminate copper fouling problems. Just my 2 cents.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sambo3006, post: 130116, member: 2740"] This topic has popped up before. Someone--I think it might have been Bart B posted a link to the MSDS sheet for molybdenum disulfide (moly) and it is inert if I recall correctly. Please don't take this as the final word, though. I have consumed lots of venison killed by moly coated bullets to no apparent ill effect. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] Moly is also supposed to not adhere to itself so theoretically there should be no fouling problem. I believe moly was first used as an industrial high temp lubricant. Moly coating is easily applied with a tumbler. I got my kit from Midway about 6 years ago and still have lots of moly left. You just wash the bullets with a degreasing soap such as dish soap and then dry the bullets. Use gloves so you don't get oil from your skin on the bullets. Then just put them in a dedicated moly tumbler bowl with some moly and presto! In about an hour you have your own moly coated bullets. You lose some of the moly coating on the bullet ogive when you seat it in the case, so I don't really know how much benefit you get. I have just been coating all my bullets for several years and see no reason to scrub the moly out of my barrels. I don't shoot a huge volume of rounds in my rifles, but all I do after shooting is run a dry patch through the barrel and if it won't be shot again soon I run an oily patch through the barrel. I then run a dry patch through the next time before I shoot. I haven't noticed any significant copper fouling in my barrels and no loss of accuracy or pitting over several years time. Having said that, I am planning on putting together a premium barreled 300RUM and I do not plan to moly coat the bullets. I will follow the proper break in procedure for the barrel and that should eliminate copper fouling problems. Just my 2 cents. [/QUOTE]
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moly and/or boron bullets hunting ?
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