mismatched stock and barrel issues?

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Arctic Cowboy, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. Arctic Cowboy

    Arctic Cowboy Member

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    okay so I figure I'm interested in the ballistics side of the issue not cosmetic so I'll post here first.

    I've got an Remmy XCRII that is bonestock except for a Timney trigger. I've had it out to the range a few times and can't seem to get it to group better than 2.5 or 3". I've tried 185 Berger VLD's, 208 Amax's, and a handfull of powders with little to no change in group size. I noticed the stock is in full contact all the way down the barrel and know that can cause a big problem. Eventually I want to throw a nice barrel and stock on it, but after just being furloughed I need to watch the outgoing $$$. My question is, can I put a stock designed for a medium contour (shilin #4 ish) on the gun while using the factory barrel to see if that's the big issue or should I just buy a stock designed for the factory barrel and buy another when I rebarrel the gun. Thanks for the help!

    - AC

    oh I should note the gun is topped with a Vortex Viper PST with Larue rail and rings, so I'm reasonably sure the glass isn't the issue. I can also usually hold .5 MOA or so on a good day so I don't think it's me... could be wrong but eh, whatcha gonna do.
     
  2. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    I'd say right off, you have a barrel harmonics issue. I had the same issue with a Ruger No.1 chambered 300 WBY magnum it wouldn't shoot for beans no matter what the load was. I finally had to do surgery to the stock and add a screw to contact the barrel (SOP for that rifle btw) to cancel the harmonics.

    It's a shooter now and a shoulder bruiser too (no brake).....:)
     

  3. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    Many years ago I had a Rem700 mountain rifle that would not hold an accurate group no matter what I did. Eventually I had to replace the stock and barrel in order to get it to shoot. http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/ Hopefully you won't have to go this far in order to get your rifle to shoot. So here's somethings you can do starting at least invasive/least expensive:

    Free float barrel.
    Lift the barreled action out of the stock. As you examine the stock you will see two small blocks at the tip of the forearm. They are in contact with the barrel. Take a dremel tool or a dowel rod with some sandpaper around it and eliminate those blocks.

    Torque action screws.
    Be sure when putting the barreled action back in the stock that you use a torque driver on the action screws. This is important anytime you put a barreled action back in a stock. With a factory original 'tupperware' stock, I would recommend 45inch pounds of torque.

    Shoot rifle see if anything improves. Hopefully it does. If not....

    Recrown barrel
    Sometimes the factory crown is not perpendicular to the rifling. Having a gunsmith recrown the barrel will correct this.

    Shoot rifle to see if anything improves. Hopefully it does. If not....

    Replace stock
    Even if you just get an inexpensive laminate stock from Boyd's or Stocky's it will be an improvement. Be sure when putting the barreled action in new stock, be sure that the barrel free-floats. If it does not, sand down any pressure points. Drop barreled action in new stock and torque action screws.

    Shoot rifle to see if anything improves. Hopefully it does. If not....

    Pillar and skim bed action to stock.
    Although many pay gunsmiths to handle this procedure, it is something you can do yourself. Search this website and youtube for how-to's

    Shoot rifle to see if anything improves. Hopefully it does. If not....

    Replace barrel.
    Get a custom barrel and have a quality gunsmith blueprint your action and install custom barrel.

    Rifle had better improve now.

    As you can see, essentially you do one thing at a time and seek to measure the improvement by shooting after each step. As you progress through the steps and shoot after each step, try to use the same ammo so that you are able to make an apples-to-apples comparison.

    Here's an example of exactly what I'm talking about: http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/

    Good luck.
     
  4. Arctic Cowboy

    Arctic Cowboy Member

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    thanks much gentlemen, I guess the worse that can happen is I ruin my $50 factory stock :rolleyes:

    here's hoping!!!

    - AC

    P.S my wife tells me I'm impulsive, so I'll probably end up with a variation of your gorgeous .280 anyway ;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  5. SidecarFlip

    SidecarFlip Well-Known Member

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    A while ago I saw a video in slo motion, of a fired barrel. Looked like a ribbon blowing in the wind. They really move around though it's so fast you don't see it. When various loads/pills don't impact the baqllistics, I always look at the barrel and how it's contacted by the stock and what material the stoc consists of.
     
  6. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

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    Remington quotes 30-35 inch-lbs for a synthetic stock. However, I've seen the plastic start to deform on some stocks at less than 25 inch-lbs. 45 inch-lbs will likely be too much.
     
  7. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    You may be right. As a result, I would recommend starting at 25 and going up in 5 inch-lbs increments.
     
  8. Arctic Cowboy

    Arctic Cowboy Member

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    Okay so I borrow the McMillan stock off my dads 700 and the rifle is shooting significantly better (whew!). Next step is to buy one for myself. I eventually want to rebarrel it with a medium contour Krieger #4 or 5. If I buy a stock contoured for that barrel can I still mount the stock and shoot it with the factory barrel that's on the rifle now?
     
  9. trebark

    trebark Well-Known Member

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    Yes. Your barrel will just look a little lonely in that wide channel.

    Please know that if you bed your current barreled action into a new stock, you will likely have to rebed it when you rebarrel it.