Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
MilStd 1913 rails
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 377358" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Here's the latest.</p><p></p><p>Machined from 300 series bar stock stainless steel.</p><p></p><p>These are fairly labor intensive little bastages. </p><p></p><p>1st op is contouring the bottom to provide a qualified edge. I machine these as a surface model so that I can use off the shelf tooling instead of having to buy form tools. Better finish too I think as there's less tool pressure doing it this way. Also gives the advantage of being able to control the contour a little more. Adding included minutes of angle are a snap, you just rotate the contour in the drawing and it updates the code for you.</p><p></p><p>2nd op is whackin off the excess and then just making the passes with the angle cutters to get the overall profile. then buzzing through the stuff with a little bugger to make the slots. That's what takes the longest since you can't go blazing away for fear of snapping the endmill.</p><p></p><p>I guess I could fixture and put the part on edge but I think surface finish would look like crap as I'd have to have a key cutter with a long reach shank to get all of them without the spindle smacking the part. Long reach tooling generally doesn't cut near as nice since it's so far out there unsupported.</p><p></p><p>Then a little engraving to mark the part and off to the rock tumbler to knock off the burrs and rub all the sharp edges nice and smooth.</p><p></p><p>I'm leaving the holes out so I can fit them to a wider variety of actions.</p><p></p><p>cheers,</p><p></p><p>C</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0031.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0037.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0040.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0033.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 377358, member: 7449"] Here's the latest. Machined from 300 series bar stock stainless steel. These are fairly labor intensive little bastages. 1st op is contouring the bottom to provide a qualified edge. I machine these as a surface model so that I can use off the shelf tooling instead of having to buy form tools. Better finish too I think as there's less tool pressure doing it this way. Also gives the advantage of being able to control the contour a little more. Adding included minutes of angle are a snap, you just rotate the contour in the drawing and it updates the code for you. 2nd op is whackin off the excess and then just making the passes with the angle cutters to get the overall profile. then buzzing through the stuff with a little bugger to make the slots. That's what takes the longest since you can't go blazing away for fear of snapping the endmill. I guess I could fixture and put the part on edge but I think surface finish would look like crap as I'd have to have a key cutter with a long reach shank to get all of them without the spindle smacking the part. Long reach tooling generally doesn't cut near as nice since it's so far out there unsupported. Then a little engraving to mark the part and off to the rock tumbler to knock off the burrs and rub all the sharp edges nice and smooth. I'm leaving the holes out so I can fit them to a wider variety of actions. cheers, C [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0031.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0037.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0040.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/GUN%20PICS/Products/DSC_0033.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
MilStd 1913 rails
Top