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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Melonite barrel treatment
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 958591" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>During my education process, and did a semester studying nothing but stainless steels and some form that are rather secretive to this day (military aps). Vito Mitkuss was the professor, and in his field he was a man you listened to. His first statement in the class stunned me! He simply made the statement that stainless steel is regular steel with lots and lot of nickel and chrome added to the compound. Of course it's also much more highly refined too. In that class he introduced us to the 5** series (never seen that one have?) And dealt with the new kids on the block like 15-5 thru 18-5. That class could well have been a two semester class as the data was constantly flowing in, and also changing almost weekly. He brought in men and women for lectures that were mind boggling, and made all of use feel like idiots with our questions. I'm certain now that there are some new alloys in the design desk that would solve all our issues, but most folks won't be able to use them due to the expensive learning cure in the machining processes alone. Big companies can do it fairly easily, but 90% of the barrel makers can't afford this.</p><p> </p><p>Lastly when cutting 17ph-4, the coolant used can be an issue. Let alone the method for delivering the coolant. Your cutting threads? Often a good spray mist will get you by with the correct insert. Flood systems do well, but want pressure, and that can be a real mess. I have cut it with high speed with excellent results, and the tool pressure is vastly reduced if the cutting tip is ground right. But also a pain to learn. Reamers are ground just for this stuff, and a typical reamer won't get it. The finish reamer must cut a little more stock than we would normally think of due to surface work hardening alone. You just want to cut clean steel all the time. Won't tell you much about gun drilling (can't, but want to), but look for 2000psi of coolant. The coolant is special, and the grind on the drills are even more special. If you can get 3000psi, then go with it, as you need it. I used nothing but Pratt's to drill the stuff, and the Albions and Jap gun drills were not heavy enough. We put a lot of steel in the scrap tubs learning this ballgame, and I'll be first to admit it<g>.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 958591, member: 25383"] During my education process, and did a semester studying nothing but stainless steels and some form that are rather secretive to this day (military aps). Vito Mitkuss was the professor, and in his field he was a man you listened to. His first statement in the class stunned me! He simply made the statement that stainless steel is regular steel with lots and lot of nickel and chrome added to the compound. Of course it's also much more highly refined too. In that class he introduced us to the 5** series (never seen that one have?) And dealt with the new kids on the block like 15-5 thru 18-5. That class could well have been a two semester class as the data was constantly flowing in, and also changing almost weekly. He brought in men and women for lectures that were mind boggling, and made all of use feel like idiots with our questions. I'm certain now that there are some new alloys in the design desk that would solve all our issues, but most folks won't be able to use them due to the expensive learning cure in the machining processes alone. Big companies can do it fairly easily, but 90% of the barrel makers can't afford this. Lastly when cutting 17ph-4, the coolant used can be an issue. Let alone the method for delivering the coolant. Your cutting threads? Often a good spray mist will get you by with the correct insert. Flood systems do well, but want pressure, and that can be a real mess. I have cut it with high speed with excellent results, and the tool pressure is vastly reduced if the cutting tip is ground right. But also a pain to learn. Reamers are ground just for this stuff, and a typical reamer won't get it. The finish reamer must cut a little more stock than we would normally think of due to surface work hardening alone. You just want to cut clean steel all the time. Won't tell you much about gun drilling (can't, but want to), but look for 2000psi of coolant. The coolant is special, and the grind on the drills are even more special. If you can get 3000psi, then go with it, as you need it. I used nothing but Pratt's to drill the stuff, and the Albions and Jap gun drills were not heavy enough. We put a lot of steel in the scrap tubs learning this ballgame, and I'll be first to admit it<g>. gary [/QUOTE]
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