Maxed out Elevation??

LostInSpace278

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Joined
Aug 29, 2008
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94
Lemme give you a run down of the equipment first:

Savage model 12 BVSS 300 wsm 26'' heavy barrel
EGW Picatinny 20 moa base
Burris Tactical rings medium
Nikon Monarch 4-16x42 Mildot
Winchester Supreme E-tip 180 gr.

I went to the gun range this morning, excited about shooting my new setup. I maxed out my elevation trying to zero in at 100 yds. I was like ***! After maxing out, I was still 1/2'' low. My first question is many MOA's can be obtained from going to a low style ring? I have 40 moa internal and to say the least I would like to be in the bottom 25% of that 40 moa at 100 yds. So what can I do different to this setup to achieve my goal? Low rings, 25 or 30 moa base, is there anything else that can be done. I don't like the idea of shimming, because it makes the makes the bolts "cattywhompus."

One other thing, on my 42mm Monarch, Nikon says it is sunshade adaptable. Anyone know how I can do this? Between 10 and 11 this morning the sun was glaring right in my scope making it almost impossible to see, so a sunshade is in order.

Thanks in advance for your time,

John
 
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Well after some research, it seems I can get 1/4'' from going to low style ring. I guess my only other option is to give Seekins Precision a call. If I have 40 MOA internal and I'm maxed out now with a 20 MOA base. A 40 Moa base will only get me 2/3 of the usable MOA's I want. Has any one else ever ran into this problem before?
 
I maxed out my elevation trying to zero in at 100 yds. I was like ***! After maxing out, I was still 1/2'' low.

You maxed out your elevation (UP ?) and your still .5 moa low at 100 yards?????

If that is the case you have your 20 moa base on backwards.

You should be really close to maxing out your down elevation and even if you were 1/2" high I'd either get a 10 moa base so you might get 30 moa adjustment up or live with a 200 yd zero and keep your 20 moa base.


You'd never....not even a chance.....have a 100 yd zero with a 40moa base.
 
If that is the case you have your 20 moa base on backwards.
LostInSpace278,

That was my first thought! 20 moa base would have to be backwards.

When you place the 20 moa base (thinner portion towards the barrel), and assuming your scope turret has been centered vertically, you should be able to turn the turret 16 moa downwards to be on target at 100 yards. that would stop you 4 moa away from buttom out which is good and the ability to go up 36 moa. I you don't want to go to the limit call it 34 moa which would about be enough to around 1200 yards using Norsler Accubond 180 gr. at about 3000 ft/sec MV. :) ;)
 
I agree with previous posts. You've got your base installed backwards.

Like you, I just changed the set-up on my .308 and installed a 30moa base. I made a 16moa change DOWN and I was pretty much zero at 100.
 
Good call guys. I had this epiphany at work today. "Maybe it's not the hardware....maybe it was the guy who installed it!" So I tried to remember if I checked the 20 MOA base before I installed. You guessed it...NOPE!

First thing I did when I got home, was to check and see if I installed it backwards. Sure as the world, I did. It's installed correctly now....one thing is for sure, after such a simple piece of hardware makes you feel like an idiot. It will be one mistake not soon repeated. I do thank you guys for chiming in with such incredible insight. I'm sure I'm not the first to install it backwards, but I am a man that will admit my own faults. It's a learning process and not all lessons are easily learned.

So centering it up vertically and dropping 16 MOA really works that good? That's a cool trick to know.

Just for future reference the Nikon Monarch 4-16x42 has around 60 MOA. At least I counted 243 clicks from bottom to top and 243 from top to bottom.

I'll get into contact with The Optic Zone about the sunshade. Thanks again for all your help guys, I really do appreciate it.

John
 
Eaglet and I were talking about you at lunch today.

Glad you got it. Good thing it was something that easy. Too bad your Savage isn't older, then you would have had the flat back and couldn't have put it on backwards.

Nice setup you got there. I have the left hand long action of the same gun. Mine's a 112FLVSS(no laminated stocks for us lefties). I'm also using the EGW and Burris XTR rings. All 3 make for a great combo.
 
LIS, don't feel to bad. I was installing a Nightfoce Direct Mount the other day, I put set it on the receiver and the holes didn't line up. My first though was that I had received the wrong one.

30 seconds later and a 180 degree twist I was in business. The 20 degree slant on those is most deceiving not to mention the integral lug that is supposed to go on the front of the action (I felt like a fool). but that's how we learn.

Glad it worked out for you.
 
I really like the set up. A bit on the heavy side, but I'll manage. I also installed a Harris Swiveling bipod withe leg notches. Now I have to find someone who sells the pod lock. I also realized (with a few love taps from the scope) that a muzzle brake might be in order. That and my wife wants to shoot it, because she thinks it's a pretty gun :rolleyes:
 
MagMan, your on a roll. I was just doing a search and came up with the very same thing. I guess I'll go for the metal/steel, since the last thing I want is the nylon to snap off in frigid temps.

Thanks again MagMan!

John
 
MagMan, your on a roll. I was just doing a search and came up with the very same thing. I guess I'll go for the metal/steel, since the last thing I want is the nylon to snap off in frigid temps.

Thanks again MagMan!

John

LostInSpace,
My daughter (Spacecookie) is looking for someone like you, if you are not married.
UB
 
You should be able to contact wherever you bought your scope and ask about a sunshade. Start there. Is the inside of the Objective Bezel threaded?


Yes the objective bezel is threaded.

Sorry UncleB, I am a married man with 2 wonderful and precious demon spawns ;)
 
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