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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Max BBL for 22-250AI
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<blockquote data-quote="James Jones" data-source="post: 132437" data-attributes="member: 8843"><p>I would certainly go with a 1-8 twist "just in case" you get the urge to sling one way out their.</p><p>I was figuring that your gun would be of the lower shot string type like a deer or coyote gun in which case you can go with an even lighter barrel and not ory to much about the barrel "wipping" , all barrels are gonna move no way to stop it the trick is making them come back to the same spot each time hence free floating and cryo treatment. if your not gonn be shooting more than 5-7 times in a row then your barrel conture at 28" would be fine , what guys tend to run into with thin barrels is not so much the barrel "wipping" but but it actualy warping from the heat of alot or rounds getting it hot which is better termed as "walking".</p><p>I have seen a very thin barreled 300Wby mag only .600" at the end of a 28" barrel shoot awsome 3 shot groups under 1/2" , the 4th shot walked up about a half inch and the 5th was about another 1/4" every time he shot five shot groups after letting it cool it would send the next 3 rounds into the group with the first three then the 4th would group with it twin and the 5th the same way.</p><p>Theory says that a cut rifled barrel will walk less because their is no stress introduced during the rifleing and conturing (shoulden't be anyway) but when a buttoned rifled barrel is rifled the grooves are "pressed" into the steel making for a great deal of induced stress.</p><p>From what I have seen personaly all barrels will walk when they get hot some more than others , every barrel I have seen shot before and after cryo treatment walked less after but still walked.</p><p></p><p>So in short , get the 28" barrel incase you want to set it back some or want a little extra velocity will it be any less accurate than a 26" or 22" for that matter , probably not for the first 3-4 shots!! If this gun is gonna see a few fast action prarie dogs shoots then I'd go ahead and have your smith set you up with a twin barrel!</p><p></p><p>A little side note , the 75gr A-max run out of a hot </p><p>22-250Ai makes ofr a great long range coyote gun and even smaller deer and such at mid ranges with carefull shot placement. Also try the heavier Bereger VLD bullets 60gr class and trim the meplat back a bit so the nose is a little wider and will open faster, they make awsome varmint bullets.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="James Jones, post: 132437, member: 8843"] I would certainly go with a 1-8 twist "just in case" you get the urge to sling one way out their. I was figuring that your gun would be of the lower shot string type like a deer or coyote gun in which case you can go with an even lighter barrel and not ory to much about the barrel "wipping" , all barrels are gonna move no way to stop it the trick is making them come back to the same spot each time hence free floating and cryo treatment. if your not gonn be shooting more than 5-7 times in a row then your barrel conture at 28" would be fine , what guys tend to run into with thin barrels is not so much the barrel "wipping" but but it actualy warping from the heat of alot or rounds getting it hot which is better termed as "walking". I have seen a very thin barreled 300Wby mag only .600" at the end of a 28" barrel shoot awsome 3 shot groups under 1/2" , the 4th shot walked up about a half inch and the 5th was about another 1/4" every time he shot five shot groups after letting it cool it would send the next 3 rounds into the group with the first three then the 4th would group with it twin and the 5th the same way. Theory says that a cut rifled barrel will walk less because their is no stress introduced during the rifleing and conturing (shoulden't be anyway) but when a buttoned rifled barrel is rifled the grooves are "pressed" into the steel making for a great deal of induced stress. From what I have seen personaly all barrels will walk when they get hot some more than others , every barrel I have seen shot before and after cryo treatment walked less after but still walked. So in short , get the 28" barrel incase you want to set it back some or want a little extra velocity will it be any less accurate than a 26" or 22" for that matter , probably not for the first 3-4 shots!! If this gun is gonna see a few fast action prarie dogs shoots then I'd go ahead and have your smith set you up with a twin barrel! A little side note , the 75gr A-max run out of a hot 22-250Ai makes ofr a great long range coyote gun and even smaller deer and such at mid ranges with carefull shot placement. Also try the heavier Bereger VLD bullets 60gr class and trim the meplat back a bit so the nose is a little wider and will open faster, they make awsome varmint bullets. [/QUOTE]
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