Discussion in 'Technical Articles - Discussion' started by ADMIN, Dec 9, 2008.

Marlin XL7 Review

By ADMIN, Jul 7, 2010 | Updated: Sep 20, 2011 | |
  1. ADMIN

    ADMIN Administrator

    Mar 6, 2008
    This is a thread for discussion of the article, Marlin XL7 Review By Jon R. Sundra. Here you can ask questions or make comments about the article.

    The author will have this thread automatically notify him of posts so that he can join the discussion. Here you can ask questions or make comments about the article.
  2. kocoa88

    kocoa88 Active Member

    Jun 6, 2008
    Good article. I too have tested the rifle out only in .270 and it performed well. The only problem that I had with the rifle was the trigger guard. I separated the weapon from the stock to inspect the craftsmanship of the entire weapons system. When I was putting the rifle back together I was driving the rear screw into the trigger guard at 65 inch pounds and noticed that the screw bored through the trigger guard. The trigger guard as I found out was made of soft composite materials. Plastic!

    I called Marlin and they sent another trigger guard no questions asked. The only problem was it as another plastic one. I had a millwright I know make one made out of mettle and then torque it down to the rifle at 65 inch pounds. This gave the weapon the capability to hold a 5 round shot group at sub MOA out to 660 yards. Being that rifle has a light barrel I didn't try any more than 5 shots at a time to check sustained accuracy.


  3. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

    Dec 24, 2007
    good reading Ive been watching the xl7 since last year wating to hear what every one has to say it does sound like a dam good rifle but I realy like wood stocks it got all the right parts feels good in the hands but havent shoot one yet going to some day I hope
  4. dmnelson15

    dmnelson15 Member

    Jul 7, 2009
    I bought one with a walnut stock in .30-06 this April and I was very impressed. Due to the low price I originally bought it as a lower cost rifle to bring in the woods in bad weather and save my heirloom for good weather, but it looks, handles and shoots WAY better than the price tag would have you believe. The walnut is high quality and well finished, with a factory mounted Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad, and the trigger is one of the best "out of the box" triggers I have felt- no adjustment was even desired. I shoot 180gn Federal loads, their Power Shock SP and Fusion PSP, and both loads consistently group to 1.5" or better with no malfunctions of any kind to date. After even twenty rounds my shoulder is not close to being sore, coupled with the great trigger, makes this rifle enjoyable to bring to the range, not a chore. I also like the Remington style safety and Winchester style bolt release. As a personal preference I used Leupold two piece dovetail mounts and rings to mount my scope. All in all it is a very well made, light, accurate rifle and far better than the price you pay for it. My walnut stocked one ran $440 before tax. I am not employed by Marlin or as a writer for any magazine, I just really like this rifle and I believe Marlin should get as many good reviews by those who own them as possible. They should keep producing them the way they have, hands down. Thanks for my time in the "soap box," Dave
  5. crosshairsonTheCross

    crosshairsonTheCross Member

    Mar 5, 2010
    Rookie needing advice!
    OK guys. I have been hunting 6 times, bagged 2 deer, and this past year, started plinking, at longer and longer distances, just for fun. I am hooked, and on a budget.

    I have always borrowed a gun to hunt with (i know, you can't take an ethical shot with a gun you don't "know" but hey, I'm a rookie).

    I started saving for a gun (4 kids under 7 restricts your budget). Before I could buy, I won a Marlin XL-7 scoped combo in .243 at a church raffle for $10. Better than a sharp stick in the eye!

    Anyway, I haven't even shot it. I have been reading for the past month about sighting, shooting, cleaning and care.

    Here is what I have : .243 Marlin XL-7 with Nikon Buckmasters 4-12X50 *Never Been Shot*

    I have my CHL, carry daily, and am very comfortable and familiar with SA handguns, but other than plinking with an old .22 Marlin 60, I have only fired about 10 rounds out of a rifle. Hopefuly I am stepping into this a bit ahead of the average rookie.

    Here are my questions:

    1. I read an article about cleaning the bore after each of my first 5-10 shots. Do I need to do this, or is this just for high-dollar super-accurate rigs?

    2. I was going to sight in and set my zero at 200 yards using 2 boxes of Federal 115g rounds that I won with the gun. Is this a reasonable range for that scope, gun, round (and rookie)? My brother-in-law will be reloading my brass with 80g hunting rounds. Will I need to re-sight with those?

    3. The synthetic stock has 2 raised "points" that apply pressure to the barrel at the forward end of the stock. I have been advised to sand these off to fully "free-float" the barrell. Should I do this?

    4. I was told that I should fire 3 shots, adjust my sights, then fire another 3 at a fresh target. Is this enough to show where my groups are off?

    5. I have also been told to fire around 15 shots, then let the barrell cool before shooting any more. Is this correct? If so, how long should I let it cool.

    6. After many-many rounds of practice, What will the efective range of this gun be (when I am no longer a rookie)?

    7. If taken well care of, how long will this gun last? How many rounds should the barrel last?

    8. Knowing that the XL-7 is of nominal value, Is this going to be something that I can pass on to one of my boys as a "heritage gun" or will it be a worn out piece in a few years?

    I have 100 more questions, and am doing this on my own due to budget constraints, so any advice and response is greatly appreciated.
  6. Top Cat

    Top Cat Well-Known Member

    Jul 6, 2005
    The Marlin XL-7 is a nice rifle for the money.

    1) Yes
    2) Yes Yes
    3) Yes
    4) Yes
    5) No. Shoot 3 Rounds then let it cool.
    6) Max range is determined by the shooter's skill level. 243 is effective well past 1000 yards.
    7) 2500 rounds for hunting accuracy.
    8) It is a well made rifle and will last as long as any other.

    You can pass it down but it is not really a "heritage" rifle like a pre 64 M70 or a custom. It is more a useful tool than a collector's piece.

  7. Top Cat

    Top Cat Well-Known Member

    Jul 6, 2005
    That is obviously too much torque for that rifle in stock configuration. Where did you get that number from? I doubt that Marlin specifies the torque that high, there is no way plastic will take that but the screws don't really need to be that tight. I would think 45 inch pounds max would be more reasonable.

    It is more important that the action be seated in the stock correctly and the screws torqued up to final weight gradually and evenly. If that torque doesn't hold the action in then it should be glass bedded. I would still be surprised if the plastic guard held the torque without occasional retightening, but the rear screw is less important than the front and does not need to be as tight.

    The metal TG is a nice upgrade.

  8. WYcoyote

    WYcoyote Well-Known Member

    Jan 15, 2010
    For those who prefer a metal trigger guard (aluminum) a Marlin 925 TG is a great fit requiring only a larger hole drilled thru the rear existing bolt hole.
    I just ordered mine from Marlin part #G3207580 phone 800-544-8892.
    Was $17 shipped.
    I think this will allow the rear screw to be torqued to a higher value than the OEM plastic TG.
    This is what it should have been in the first place.
  9. Johnsp

    Johnsp New Member

    Oct 10, 2009
    I bought a 25-06 2 years ago for bad weather conditions but now use it all the time. I have shot 2 deer with it. I load 120 grain hornady hollow points and have a .5" MOA at 100 yards. It also holds a great pattern at 200 yards. It is a great gun for the money. I would recomend this gun to anyone who likes to shoot. I have shot the cheaper savages, low line remingtons, and others. Nothing shots like an XL7. The gun is light weight and very comfortable to shot. The only down fall is the barell finish.
  10. Boss Hoss

    Boss Hoss Well-Known Member

    Nov 10, 2005
    Just a comment about breaking in the tube ----YES a factory tube it is even more important to shoot 1 clean and shoot a total of 5 this way. Factory tubes are very rough compared to a custom tube.

    Of follow the below advice from one of the best builders and shooters that walks on the planet.

    Proper Barrel Break-in
    ensures long Barrel Life

    Proper barrel break-in procedures are crucial for top accuracy and performance. More barrels are damaged by cleaning rods than by any amount of regular shooting a person may do. If not done correctly, one can do more harm than good.

    The barrel break-in technique we endorse, is the “Speedy Method” named after Speedy Gonzalez, owner of S.G.& Y Rifles. Speedy is well known in Benchrest disciplines; national champion, world record holder, and Hall of Fame Member in the National Benchrest Shooters Association (NBRSA), Head of the Trinidad State Gunsmithing School . He has given permission to share with you, his expert advice on the correct method of barrel break-in and cleaning.

    Rifle Cleaning the Right Way
    Barrel break-in. Many of our customers upon taking delivery of their new rifle or barrel are in a quandary as how to go about breaking in their rifle for maximum life and accuracy. With so much written in magazines these days stating use this, don’t use that, brush, don’t brush...what’s a person to do?? At S.G.& Y. Rifles, we have a unique opportunity to inspect many rifle barrels on a daily basis with our video borescope. Consequently, we see the results of a variety of barrel break-in and cleaning procedures, and most of them leave the rifle owners with their mouth agape when they see the fruits of their misinformed labor on our color monitor. We have seen practically new barrels ruined with less than a hundred rounds shot through them by some of the crazy and sometimes humorous barrel break-in methods. Anyway here goes for what it’s worth.

    A. Bore guides- If you don’t have one, get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More rifle barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting! There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Lucas two-piece bore guide. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. All other bore guides in my opinion are only good for keeping the solvents out of the trigger and action.

    B. Solvents - We recommend Sweets 7.62 for copper and Butches Bore Shine for powder fouling.

    C. Procedure for “Break-in” - Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps.

    Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don’t have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your rifle and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one “At-A-Boy” for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.

    Note: One “Aw-Sh*t” wipes out ALL “At-A-Boys”.

    Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out.

    Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o’clock. This is very bad “JU-JU” for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with Butch’s Boreshine and SLOWLY run the brush through the barrel 10 complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.

    Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with Butch’s Boreshine and pass it through the bore. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Kleen or lighter fluid. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (lets not gall the lugs just yet). Now, your ready to shoot your first shot. Then follow the schedule below to complete your barrel break-in.

    1. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 1 shot.

    2. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 5 shots.

    3. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 shots.

    4. Clean barrel / lube bolt / 10 to 15 shots and clean again.

    D. Additional Barrel Break-in and Cleaning Tips -

    1. Each time you clean you may also follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.

    2. We are always asked about powder fouling and how to remove it. The only product that we have seen that really does a good job on powder fouling, especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with a Pro-Shot nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and your ready to shoot.

    E. Follow the outline above for your regular cleaning program and I promise that your rifle barrels will deliver their greatest accuracy and life without a lot of grief and hours of wondering if they are clean.

    Good Shooting,

    Speedy Gonzalez
  11. Chas1

    Chas1 Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2009
    Good article, enjoyed reading it. I've got a soft spot for Marlins as the first rifle I shot as a young boy was a Marlin bolt action 22 and bought my son his first 22 back in 84' which was a Marlin bolt action 22...Lots of good memories surrounding both these rifles. As such I really hope Marlin has nailed it with the XL7 and it takes off.
  12. drays1955

    drays1955 New Member

    Sep 29, 2010
    I am glad to hear others have been so pleased with the XL7 but I have not been so fortunate. My wife recently purchased one chambered for 25-06. I have not been able to get the rifle to group until the barrel heats up. The first shot will be 3 inches right and the second will be 2 inches right, the third will be about 1.5. I am walking to the target to allow the barrel to cool in between shots. After 4 or 5 shots I can then place a 1.5 inch group. Any ideas? Thanks
  13. keeki

    keeki Member

    Dec 21, 2010
    float that barrel, sounds like pressure on it to me.
  14. cva54

    cva54 Well-Known Member

    Dec 24, 2007
    BY all means float it