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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Making Cases for 30 Gibbs
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<blockquote data-quote="Timnterra" data-source="post: 2101164" data-attributes="member: 55944"><p>You will need to make an enlarged false shoulder before you load and fire form it. The reason for using 280 brass is the longer overall length which will net you a longer neck on the Gibbs case. However, the round will have excessive headspace if you just run it through the Gibbs die. In my brass prep I use a 338 neck expanding button to open up the neck then I run the brass into the 30gibbs die which leaves a false shoulder to headspace against in the chamber. With 280 brass You would probably need to run the brass through the 30 cal expander and then the 338 expander before you run it through the 30 Gibbs die. The other option is to seat the bullet way out and cram it into the lands, but I don't really trust the neck tension to hold the round in place like a false shoulder.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Timnterra, post: 2101164, member: 55944"] You will need to make an enlarged false shoulder before you load and fire form it. The reason for using 280 brass is the longer overall length which will net you a longer neck on the Gibbs case. However, the round will have excessive headspace if you just run it through the Gibbs die. In my brass prep I use a 338 neck expanding button to open up the neck then I run the brass into the 30gibbs die which leaves a false shoulder to headspace against in the chamber. With 280 brass You would probably need to run the brass through the 30 cal expander and then the 338 expander before you run it through the 30 Gibbs die. The other option is to seat the bullet way out and cram it into the lands, but I don’t really trust the neck tension to hold the round in place like a false shoulder. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Making Cases for 30 Gibbs
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