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The Basics, Starting Out
LR hunting Rifle standards and practices
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<blockquote data-quote="Michael Eichele" data-source="post: 246134" data-attributes="member: 1007"><p>What helped me crossover from "light" rifles to heavy ones was the results I saw from the heavier ones. Once I saw this I didnt even feel the extra weight in the "hills". All of my rifles are 12-13#, including my sheep rifle. I have killed one sheep with a 8# rig and 5 with a 12+# rig. The heaviest was 16# and that really did wear me out. I will never do that again.</p><p></p><p>As far as calibers, there is a big difference betwen coyotes and elk. Get one suited for elk and at worst it will be overkill for coyotes. My recomendation to have good punch to 500-600 yards and keep the weight down a bit is the 300 WSM. This is much less finicky than calibers like the 300 RUM ect.....You can use a 180 for elk and a 155 for yotes. The 155 Lapua SCENAR bullet doesnt expand much and wouldnt tear up your yotes and would be very fast and flat for such a small kill zone. Also, as a beginner in the long range field, a 300 WSM wouldnt frustrate you nearly as much as a bigger rifle (that is if you are handloading.) The 308 is even better to learn on and get your confidence. The draw back here is having enough punch to cleanly harvest and elk at 600+.</p><p></p><p>As far as lighter scopes that will serve you well at 600-, some of the mid range lupies will do well. Get either a reticle you can hold over such as a TMR or Mil-Dot (for 308 type calibers I recomend the Mil-Dot, and for magnums I recomend the TMR) or adjustable turrets or both.</p><p></p><p>I prefer standard mil-dots for sub magnums because the trajectories match the dots well. For magnums I like the TMR because it is still the same system as the Mil-Dot, but has marks 1/2 way between holdovers. Since mags shoot flatter, you need these tighter holdovers. There isnt anything wrong with using the TMR on a 308 either, there is just more lines to miss-count.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Michael Eichele, post: 246134, member: 1007"] What helped me crossover from "light" rifles to heavy ones was the results I saw from the heavier ones. Once I saw this I didnt even feel the extra weight in the "hills". All of my rifles are 12-13#, including my sheep rifle. I have killed one sheep with a 8# rig and 5 with a 12+# rig. The heaviest was 16# and that really did wear me out. I will never do that again. As far as calibers, there is a big difference betwen coyotes and elk. Get one suited for elk and at worst it will be overkill for coyotes. My recomendation to have good punch to 500-600 yards and keep the weight down a bit is the 300 WSM. This is much less finicky than calibers like the 300 RUM ect.....You can use a 180 for elk and a 155 for yotes. The 155 Lapua SCENAR bullet doesnt expand much and wouldnt tear up your yotes and would be very fast and flat for such a small kill zone. Also, as a beginner in the long range field, a 300 WSM wouldnt frustrate you nearly as much as a bigger rifle (that is if you are handloading.) The 308 is even better to learn on and get your confidence. The draw back here is having enough punch to cleanly harvest and elk at 600+. As far as lighter scopes that will serve you well at 600-, some of the mid range lupies will do well. Get either a reticle you can hold over such as a TMR or Mil-Dot (for 308 type calibers I recomend the Mil-Dot, and for magnums I recomend the TMR) or adjustable turrets or both. I prefer standard mil-dots for sub magnums because the trajectories match the dots well. For magnums I like the TMR because it is still the same system as the Mil-Dot, but has marks 1/2 way between holdovers. Since mags shoot flatter, you need these tighter holdovers. There isnt anything wrong with using the TMR on a 308 either, there is just more lines to miss-count. [/QUOTE]
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