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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Looking to learn some more please.
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<blockquote data-quote="PowellSixO" data-source="post: 1027083" data-attributes="member: 66495"><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">How's it going guys? I've been reloading for a couple of years now, and have a pretty decent program going on. I have the basics down and maybe a little more. I'm always wanting to learn more, and I was hoping you guys could teach me some more. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"><u>My entire reloading process is below:</u></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I like winchester and remington brass, and I usually start by buying factory ammo that has the brass I'm after.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I go plink the factory ammo to get my once fired brass.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I run the once fired brass through my vibratory brass cleaner with just walnut shell media (no polish), for about an hour.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I remove the brass and inspect it for any obvious issues.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I spray the brass with One Shot case lube (outside of case, and a little on the inside of the case neck).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I set my full length sizing die up, with one piece of once fired brass. I keep pushing the shoulder back until I get no resistence when chambering the case in my rifle.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-Once the die is set, I resize all of my brass and deprime the brass at the same time.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then once again inspect the brass for any signs of issues. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then trim the brass to the minimum brass length.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I chamfer and deburr the brass. I also clean the primer pocket at this time.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then put the brass back in the walnut media, and add a little brass polish, and clean the brass for a few hours. Or until it's to my satisfaction.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I remove the brass and clean all of the media from the brass with compressed air. Taking special care to make sure the flash holes are all clear.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then prime the brass.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I measure my powder on an electronic scale.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then weigh the powder on my mechanical scale.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then add the powder to the case.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then press the bullet in with my RCBS Competition Bullet Seating tool.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I check every other cartridge with my bullet comparator tool, to make sure they are all being seated to the same depth.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">Now there are a few other things I need to address, that are also part of my reloading process.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"><u>Determining COAL (I measure from the base of the case to the Ogive with my bullet comparator):</u></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I take a once fired piece of brass, and clean the inside of the neck with a brush.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I place a bullet into the case and make sure that it moves fairly freely (If it does not, I keep cleaning the inside of the neck until it does).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then pull the bullet out of the case a little, to the point that I know it will touch the lands of the barrel when chambered.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I chamber the round and open and close the bolt a few times.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I remove the round and measure the COAL.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I do this 10 times, and then take the average of my measurements.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-This is my COAL. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then load a dummy round (A resized, trimmed, deburred, dechamfered, cleaned and ready to go piece of brass, used primer, no powder, and bullet), to the exact length of the COAL cartridge.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I mark this dummy round with a permanent marker with the measurements written on it. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-This will now be my go to round for comparing all my other rounds to in the future. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"><u>Determining Powder charge:</u></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-Once I have my bullet and powder picked, I find my min and max loads on loaddata.com.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I start at the minimum load and make 3 rounds at that weight, I then step up .3 grains and make 3 more loads at that weight, and so on and so on until I reach a little over the max load.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I load the rounds with the bullets .020" off the lands (this is what I've found to be a good starting point for the Berger VLD's).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I take these to the range and fire 1 bullet every 4-5 minutes (allowing time for the barrel to cool between shots),and see how each load groups at 100 yards. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I pick my best two loads, and then load up 15 of each with different seating depths. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then go back to the range and fire 3 round groups to see which seating depth groups best. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I take my best group load, and then reload a box of 20.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-I then go back to the range to see how it performs out to 500 yards.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">-If it will hold a similar moa at 500 yards that I got at 100 yards, I call it good. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"><u>Now for the questions:</u></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">1. Is there anything with my process that is wrong, or that could be improved?</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">2. What measurements and tools do I need to properly monitor my brass? (Right now I don't know exactly what I need to measure, and where I need to measure to monitor my brass. I usually just use it until it fails. I'd like to be able to monitor the brass so that I know it's not any good, and that I should get rid of it before it fails.)</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">3.Any tricks for making brass last longer? (I'm currently getting about 6-7 reloads out of my 7mm before the brass fails. And I have not reloaded my .243 enough to get to the point of brass failure yet.)</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">4. Any other tips, tricks, pointers, or anything else you guys can think of that might help me out?</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: #191970">Thanks guys! </span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PowellSixO, post: 1027083, member: 66495"] [SIZE=2][COLOR=#191970]How's it going guys? I've been reloading for a couple of years now, and have a pretty decent program going on. I have the basics down and maybe a little more. I'm always wanting to learn more, and I was hoping you guys could teach me some more. [U]My entire reloading process is below:[/U] -I like winchester and remington brass, and I usually start by buying factory ammo that has the brass I'm after. -I go plink the factory ammo to get my once fired brass. -I run the once fired brass through my vibratory brass cleaner with just walnut shell media (no polish), for about an hour. -I remove the brass and inspect it for any obvious issues. -I spray the brass with One Shot case lube (outside of case, and a little on the inside of the case neck). -I set my full length sizing die up, with one piece of once fired brass. I keep pushing the shoulder back until I get no resistence when chambering the case in my rifle. -Once the die is set, I resize all of my brass and deprime the brass at the same time. -I then once again inspect the brass for any signs of issues. -I then trim the brass to the minimum brass length. -I chamfer and deburr the brass. I also clean the primer pocket at this time. -I then put the brass back in the walnut media, and add a little brass polish, and clean the brass for a few hours. Or until it's to my satisfaction. -I remove the brass and clean all of the media from the brass with compressed air. Taking special care to make sure the flash holes are all clear. -I then prime the brass. -I measure my powder on an electronic scale. -I then weigh the powder on my mechanical scale. -I then add the powder to the case. -I then press the bullet in with my RCBS Competition Bullet Seating tool. -I check every other cartridge with my bullet comparator tool, to make sure they are all being seated to the same depth. Now there are a few other things I need to address, that are also part of my reloading process. [U]Determining COAL (I measure from the base of the case to the Ogive with my bullet comparator):[/U] -I take a once fired piece of brass, and clean the inside of the neck with a brush. -I place a bullet into the case and make sure that it moves fairly freely (If it does not, I keep cleaning the inside of the neck until it does). -I then pull the bullet out of the case a little, to the point that I know it will touch the lands of the barrel when chambered. -I chamber the round and open and close the bolt a few times. -I remove the round and measure the COAL. -I do this 10 times, and then take the average of my measurements. -This is my COAL. -I then load a dummy round (A resized, trimmed, deburred, dechamfered, cleaned and ready to go piece of brass, used primer, no powder, and bullet), to the exact length of the COAL cartridge. -I mark this dummy round with a permanent marker with the measurements written on it. -This will now be my go to round for comparing all my other rounds to in the future. [U]Determining Powder charge:[/U] -Once I have my bullet and powder picked, I find my min and max loads on loaddata.com. -I start at the minimum load and make 3 rounds at that weight, I then step up .3 grains and make 3 more loads at that weight, and so on and so on until I reach a little over the max load. -I load the rounds with the bullets .020" off the lands (this is what I've found to be a good starting point for the Berger VLD's). -I take these to the range and fire 1 bullet every 4-5 minutes (allowing time for the barrel to cool between shots),and see how each load groups at 100 yards. -I pick my best two loads, and then load up 15 of each with different seating depths. -I then go back to the range and fire 3 round groups to see which seating depth groups best. -I take my best group load, and then reload a box of 20. -I then go back to the range to see how it performs out to 500 yards. -If it will hold a similar moa at 500 yards that I got at 100 yards, I call it good. [U]Now for the questions:[/U] 1. Is there anything with my process that is wrong, or that could be improved? 2. What measurements and tools do I need to properly monitor my brass? (Right now I don't know exactly what I need to measure, and where I need to measure to monitor my brass. I usually just use it until it fails. I'd like to be able to monitor the brass so that I know it's not any good, and that I should get rid of it before it fails.) 3.Any tricks for making brass last longer? (I'm currently getting about 6-7 reloads out of my 7mm before the brass fails. And I have not reloaded my .243 enough to get to the point of brass failure yet.) 4. Any other tips, tricks, pointers, or anything else you guys can think of that might help me out? Thanks guys! [/COLOR][/SIZE] [/QUOTE]
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