Looking to get started

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by plumcrazy, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. plumcrazy

    plumcrazy Member

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    Jul 6, 2010
    How does this kit look for starters


    211588 Lyman Outside Chamfer and Deburring Tool

    271710 Redding Big Boss II Single Stage Reloading Press

    342199 Lyman Chamfer and Deburring Tool VLD (Very Low Drag)

    487186 Redding #5 Powder Trickler

    487924 L.E. Wilson Case Trimmer

    519525 Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2 oz

    671918 Satern Powder Funnel 270 Caliber Aluminum and Brass

    758842 RCBS Model 505 Magnetic Powder Scale 511 Grain Capacity

    807875 Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool



    would this be better than buying a kit already together


    I have a Sako 85 270wsm that i will be starting off on
     
  2. Gunpoor

    Gunpoor Well-Known Member

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    Apr 28, 2007
    Plumcrazy, welcome to the forum. It looks like some very good tools to me. If you can start with these tools you will have some of the better stuff on the market, but whether these tools will load better ammo can only be found one way. The only thing I would criticize would be the Lee auto-prime. Their are several different priming tools on the market that don't require a special shell holder for each cartridge case. I use the Lee tool and my S-I-L uses the RCBS primer and his is nice because you can just start priming instead of fussing around with the shell holder. And while I am on this subject, the Lee Auto-prime does not come with the shell holders (at least when I got mine they sold seperately). Also you need to add a good dial or electronic measuring caliper and some loading blocks to hold your cases while in process to your list of must haves. And also, you can load without a powder thrower but it sure wouldn't be handy. I have both the dial/analog and electrinic/digital caliper but prefer the dial style. After you start loading you will find there are some other things that you may want to add at your convenience such as a case tumbler and primer pocket cleaners and maybe some things that have slipped my mind. Remember Imperial Sizing Wax goes a long way so use sparingly. Good luck and hope you enjoy handloading.

    P.S. There are no stupid questions so don't be afraid to ask
     

  3. kweidner

    kweidner Well-Known Member

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    Oct 24, 2005
    First of welcome! Why not the rock-chucker kit? It seems the most economical. I still load on mine for all my rifles (20 something yrs). I just got another press this past year (Dillon 550) for straight wall stuff. I would recommend getting a good solid foundation on whatever you do decide to go with. You certainly have picked some quality components. IMHO most any press will work the secret is in the details. (trimming, turning, de-burring, flash hole attn., case segregation etc.) Find someone local that loads and WATCH, take notes, ask questions, then watch again. I am old school and don't trust the digital and agree about the lee prime. I use the RCBS hand primer (no special shell holders). You might want to add a trickler. I find with longer grain stuff, It can be a real sanity saver. I set my Lyman 55 to throw a little short and then creep up on my weight with my redding trickler. You don't need it for ball stuff, and most would argue that a 10th of a grain makes no discernible difference. I would disagree....Maybe it's my OCD!!!!!. Most important no question is stupid when reloading! If you are unsure ask someone who knows! These guys are great on here and will help you with most anything.
     
  4. KRP

    KRP Well-Known Member

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    Dec 25, 2007
    I disagree with the others about the Lee tool. Even with the shellholders it costs less than the standard RCBS and the shellholders are easier to switch. You could buy two Lee units and a set of shellholders for less than the cost of the RCBS with the universal shellholder. I have one of the RCBS units that uses the standard shellholders and don't use it. I use two of the Lee tools, one for small primers and one for large so the only thing I have to swap is shellholders(which takes about 2 seconds).
     
  5. boomtube

    boomtube Well-Known Member

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    Oct 8, 2007
    I never suggest kits because (1) they aren't complete anyway and (2) they lock you into everthing from a single maker and that's rarely the better choices. Your chosen selections are excellant and your list is good but it's incomplete as a total of your real needs.

    A powder measure - the Redding 3BR with the cast iron bench stand is perhaps the best bang for the money.

    A couple of loading blocks, wood or plastic won't matter a bit.

    Reloading manual - all are good but some have better illustrations and beginner instructions. Currently, the Hornady, Lee and Sierra seem best. (You really don't need more than one manual for the first year or two, more will just cause confusion. It's like a man with two or three watches who never quite knows what time it is!)

    Dies and shell holder - get Lee or Redding Comp or Forster BR dies, there's no real value in anything between those extremes in price. Lee's dies are very good, equal to the others on average anyway, while the Forsters/Reddings are somewhat " better" but not massively so. (Lee's Collet Neck Sizer is perhaps the best neck die available for factory sporters.) And you might like a Lee Universal Decapper, it's the toughest on the market.

    You WILL want a way to measure things fairly accurately. Most of us find a 6" precision stainless steel dial caliper reading to a thousanth of an inch to be very useful. Any of the low cost ($12 to $45) Chinese made tools will be fine; MidwayUSA, Lyman, RCBS, Harbor Freight Tools, etc, are all the same except for the prices.

    Also get a set of the Hornady Case Length (to the shoulder) and Bullet Comparitor tools to work with the caliper.

    Something else but I've lost it....?

    I can't see any advantage the VLD reamer adds to your list but it won't hurt anything.

    A viberator case tumbler is nice but certainly not necessary. If you get one, the brand of tumbler, the media type - cob or corn - and polish, if any, doesn't matter a bit. They all work, they all use the same small, cheap electic bath exhaust fan motors so how long one lasts is purely a matter of luck! (Keep your sales receipt for any warranty repairs you may need)

    I agree with KRP about the Lee hand priming tools. I bought two Autoprimes (one each for large and small primers) and the shell holder set about 20 years ago and have had no trouble at all. Maybe because when a primer doesn't seat easily I stop to find out why instead of simply pressing harder to MAKE it "fit"?
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2010
  6. Chas1

    Chas1 Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2009
    I'm not a fan of kits either. Do your homework and buy what you believe to be the very best otherwise you'll learn the hard way like myself and wind up buying things a 2nd & 3rd time. I would recommend the Brown & Sharpe Calibers...pricey but, you get what you pay for, here's a link:

    185 : B&S Shop-Cal Digital Calipers


    Also I'd recommend the Sinclair Priming tool, here's a link:

    SINCLAIR INTERNATIONAL : Sinclair Priming Tool -
     
  7. plumcrazy

    plumcrazy Member

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    Jul 6, 2010
    I have one question about the power measure... it it really needed if you weigh each round i was just planning on using some sort of cooking measuring scoop to pour in the scale pan..... or am i missing something.....I do plan on getting a book or two to read up on because I dont know of anyone around me that reloads to help me out......so if anyone knows of someone around the walker LA area that is willing to help me out let me know...... THANKS for all of the responces
     
  8. bassin93

    bassin93 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 31, 2009
    I have used the Lee auto prime since they first came out and until last year when I bought a rcbs version. Long story short, I gave the rcbs away. way bulkier awkward to work compared to the Lee. I like rcbs stuff but not their hand primer tool
     
  9. kweidner

    kweidner Well-Known Member

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    Oct 24, 2005
    It's funny I guess it's all what you are used to. Either way you will be successful. You definitely will want a powder dropper. I like my Lyman 55. I am afraid without a manual powder measurer you might run yourself insane. I still weigh every charge during load development. The repeatability of the Lyman is awful nice. If you are going to get all the equipment you listed, go ahead and get a powder dropper as well. You will be glad that you did.
     
  10. cedarswamp1

    cedarswamp1 Active Member

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    Dec 9, 2009
    IMHO you're gonna want the powder measure, or you're going to spend half your time dumping loads back in the powder can. I usually throw a half a grain under what I'm shooting for then trickle up to the exact weight.
     
  11. BMC1

    BMC1 Member

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    Apr 14, 2010
    I would get exactly whay you posted plus exactly what boomtube posted. If I had known about this website before I bought my kit it would have been exactly what you have listed. As for help, read all you can and all you want on the reloading forum, pick out who your gut tells you that knows what they are talking about and send them a pm to see if they will help you along with your questions. Thats what I did and it has been by far my greatest help. Ask as many questions as you want and put the answers to practice.
     
  12. boomtube

    boomtube Well-Known Member

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    "I have one question about the power measure... it it really needed if you weigh each round i was just planning on using some sort of cooking measuring scoop to pour in the scale pan..... "

    There is no magic in how we get the bulk of our charges ready to trickle up. Many of us used homemade dippers made of brass cases cut to size with wire handles soldered on for a long time before Lee came out with their plastic dipper kit. Thing is, an adjustable powder measure simply makes it easier/faster by a few seconds per charge when changing powders or charge levels.

    If you want to hold costs down at this point consider getting one of Lee's "Perfect" powder measures. They're inexpensive, all plastic and require some adjustment in assembly but overall they really work well after a bit of break in. In fact, they're perhaps the most consistant available at any price for dispensing the coarse tubular powders so common for rifle cartridges. (And they ARE measures, not powder "dumps" or "throwers" and you will never find one so listed in any catalog.)
     
  13. cedarswamp1

    cedarswamp1 Active Member

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    Dec 9, 2009
    "And they ARE measures, not powder "dumps" or "throwers" and you will never find one so listed in any catalog."

    That all depends on the consistancy of operation doesn't it? It also depends on what level of accuray each of is happy with. I'm either on the line or I ain't, sometimes that extra kernal falls and thows you over the line. I "dump" it back and "throw" another one.


    Like you say there ain't no magic in how we get our bulk charge....we can spend our time making dippers for all our different powders or we can spend our time loading and shooting, I choose the latter.
     
  14. plumcrazy

    plumcrazy Member

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    ok well now another question i have been comparing prices of the dropper, beam scale and trickler and its not much less than the hornady lock and load electric dispenser so my question is if i go with the hornady do i still need to get a beam scale if not then I think that would be my best bet what yall think