Looking to bed action of 6.5x55 Ruger M77 Mark II - recommendations?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Miller Outdoors, Apr 18, 2010.

  1. Hi,
    I've already lapped and floated the barrel and been through reasonably extensive load development and I can't get my 6.5x55 Ruger M77 Mark II to group under .9" consistently.

    I figure I've got to bed the action. I've never done it myself before and with funds being tight I'm looking for recommendations on an easy to work with (read fullproof for a beginner- lol) compound, as well as any tips.

    Thanks! :)


    Edit to mention: Not sure if this matters, but the front bedding screw is angled. Have never seen that setup before. The action isn't loose, but bedding seems to be the only thing I haven't tried to achieve good groups.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 18, 2010
  2. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

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    I once had a Ruger 77 MkII in 204 and I couldnt get that thing to shoot either. Mine was the synthetic stock model. I had it floated and bedded and a new trigger put in it. The thing wouldnt shoot under an inch. I cam to the conclusion that it must be my stock. The recoil lug area was a bit mushy. I think if I still owned the rifle and wanted to put more money in it I would either get a laminated stock and have it glass bedded or pillar bed the synthetic stock. I know this is not answering your question but it is my experience. As far as bedding I think the acraglass gel or devcon is the way to go. a lot of people have written out step by step instructions you can also watch it done on youtube.com Just make sure you do not skimp on the prep. if you do anything right make sure it is that part. Good luck. let us know how it turns out
     

  3. Thanks for info., Mike.

    I've done some online searches and have decided that since I have some JB Weld on hand I'm going to use that. I've got the wood stock prepped good - have drilled a bunch of small shallow holes and have scuffed up the area good - and have used plumbers putty to fill in and some car wax as non-stick agent on the blueing. Now to do the deed. I'm going to bed a bit past the lug and stop after an inch or so of the barrel has been bedded. Will post some photos later on.

    Funny thing about this gun - it actually shot a fraction better before gave the channel a good sanding and floated the barrel.

    While I've got it all apart I'm going to stone the sear and hammer a fraction to take out some of the trigger creep and lighten the pull a bit.
     
  4. Tikkamike

    Tikkamike Well-Known Member

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    Dec 26, 2009
    occasionally a rifle will shoot better with some up pressure on the barrel. Make sure you use lots of parting agent and good luck.
     
  5. The project wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. The JB Weld was pretty easy to work with and it appears to have have firmed things up a bit. I'd really like to get pillars done, but can't have it all.

    The trigger work came out excellent - the creep is gone and I got the weight down from 4.2 to 2.8 pounds. I took some bore paste to the trigger top and sear after I stoned both and it shined like a baby's butt. :D

    Groups appear to have been trimmed from an average of around .9 to around .7, so I'm calling it a success. Sitting here admiring the work and enjoying a bourbon and coke - doesn't get much better! :)

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    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 21, 2010