Looking for options for a barrel block bedding system.

Fiftydriver

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Jun 12, 2004
Messages
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Fort Shaw, Montana
To all,

I am finally getting around to building my personal extreme range rifle. This rifle will be used for 1500-2000 yard shooting.

The rifle will wear a very long and heavy Lilja barrel in .338" with a 1-10" twist for the great 300 gr .338" Sierra Matchking.

Because of the length(34") and weight(1.350" straight cylinder) of the barrel. I will be using a barrel block bedding system but have not decided which one yet.

THe stock I will be using is a McMillan MBR Tooley 1000 yard BR stock so there will be plenty of room for a substantial barrel bedding block.

My question for you is what are the different designs of barrel block bedding systems do you use?

All ideas are of interest to me and please give details. Please remember this hsa to be a rock solid bedding system to not only handle the weight of the barrel, but also the recoil of the 338 Kahn(338-378 w/ 35 degree conventional shoulder).

Thanks for your ideas!

Good Shooting!!!

50
 
I've built three longrangers for friends along the lines that you are going. A .338-416 Rigby Imp (same as your choice but NO BELT), a 300 Ultramag and a 416 Chey-Tac.
All of them had 1.45" dia. Lilja barrels and the alum blocks were made two-piece, top and bottom and were in HBRs from McMillan. The barrel blocks were 11" and 12" long, depending on action length. I've done several more but the big alum block was dropped into an aluminum stock instead of an HBR. One of these shot a 4.9", 10 shot group at Missoula, last Sunday, 6.5-284 caliber.
Drop me an email if you want more info on block options.

Jay, Idaho [email protected]
 
HI 50,
Here is my suggestion.
I would go with a one piece clamp on block, 9" long which would give more then enough gripping power.Clamp on blocks are well worth the extra cost when it comes time to re-barrel here are some pixs of a block I recently made for a 7mm short mag.(1.250 dia.) I can also make a 1.350.I charge 200.00 per block. Block includes 4 pillars for bedding









block sit on 4 alluminum pillars with a full bed of devcon alluminum putty and an inch and a half of alluminum putty behind recoil area.By the way the 7mm is a tac driver
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I hope you can use this information.And if you have any questions drop me an e-mail [email protected].
308nate
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308 Nate,

Youse got a website? I cannae believe a Nodak would be capable of such quality...Nice...

We just built a tooley MBR w mauser type action.. made the barrel block as it was taking a 42" heavy profiled barrel, in 6.5 x 300 wby, free floated action...but hey, you could save me some time..

(I might get a dealer discount if he doesn't find out I'm from south dakota...shhhhh)

hahah...

JR
 
I have a 34" 1.450 lilja with a brake on this one with out a barrel block 10x2" bat action will handle the waight.
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But if you need a block I would go with a 9" glue in
blockinsert_small.

Bear block
Crow Mag
 
Crow Mag,

The BAT is truely a huge receiver the is ment for such jobs. If you do not mind me asking, where did you order it from and what did it cost?

Thanks for the information

50
 
The 2" X 10" BAT weighs 6# and has a 1 1/4" thread that is nearly 2" deep. A real pleasure to work with. I've built two .408 Chey-Tacs on them. Both had barrel blocks, a 10" and an 11".
 
Troy,

A 10" BAT and an 11" block because that is what the fellow wanted. It looks really nice in the HBR McMillan. A 1.45 X 36" barrel weighs about 16#, that is a long, droopy tube hanging on any action. The first one we built had a 1.45 X 42", .338-416 Rigby. Even with a 12" block, there is 30" hanging out of a Nesika action. It is in an HBR and one fellow named it "The Floorjack" because that is what it resembles.
 
Just trying to figure what the threshold for barrel weight would be for the BAT 8.5 and BAT 10 action. I have a 32" 1.250 tube that I want to hang on my 8.5" BAT.

Thanks Jay.
 
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