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The Basics, Starting Out
Looking for advice, Fluted/ non-fluted
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 413724" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>The best thing I can tell you is to log on the Lilja site and under FAQs Dan has a very good</p><p>explanation and comparison between fluted and non fluted Barrels.</p><p></p><p>So don't take my word for it ,Because I'm am not a barrel maker, go strait to the barrel maker</p><p>and get your answer.</p><p></p><p>I had some bad experiences with fluted barrels and for a long time I would not build a tomato</p><p>stake with flutes much less a rifle. After talking to Lilja and having him explain the reasons that</p><p>I had had bad experiences with fluted barrels (Not his) It was just bad fluting and he </p><p>guaranteed me that if it were done right that they had little or no effect on accuracy and since</p><p>I tried one of his fluted barrels My mind has been changed.</p><p></p><p>I have quite a few fluted barrels now and I am very happy with them. strangely enough though</p><p>the very best(Most accurate) rifles/pistols I have are all non fluted. (Coincident?) maybe , but</p><p>when rifles shoot 1/10 of an inch groups I consider that good enough.</p><p></p><p>I have lots of fluted rifles that shoot 1/4 MOA so the difference is not much if any.</p><p></p><p>To build a rifle of a certain weight it is best to put the right components together not just the</p><p>barrel . Example: There are scopes that weigh less that 2 pounds and there are other ones</p><p>that weigh over 4 pounds.</p><p></p><p>So if you build a rifle that weighs 5.1/2 pounds and then hang a 4 pound scope on it you end</p><p>up with a heavy rifle. </p><p></p><p>Fluting is not the answer to weight because a fluted barrel will only reduce the weight by less </p><p>than 1/2 a pound and a fluted # 7 weighs as much as a plain #6 and is no stronger.</p><p></p><p>So look for a lighter scope, rings,bases,stocks if weight is a problem.</p><p></p><p>Just my opinion for what it's worth.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 413724, member: 2736"] The best thing I can tell you is to log on the Lilja site and under FAQs Dan has a very good explanation and comparison between fluted and non fluted Barrels. So don't take my word for it ,Because I'm am not a barrel maker, go strait to the barrel maker and get your answer. I had some bad experiences with fluted barrels and for a long time I would not build a tomato stake with flutes much less a rifle. After talking to Lilja and having him explain the reasons that I had had bad experiences with fluted barrels (Not his) It was just bad fluting and he guaranteed me that if it were done right that they had little or no effect on accuracy and since I tried one of his fluted barrels My mind has been changed. I have quite a few fluted barrels now and I am very happy with them. strangely enough though the very best(Most accurate) rifles/pistols I have are all non fluted. (Coincident?) maybe , but when rifles shoot 1/10 of an inch groups I consider that good enough. I have lots of fluted rifles that shoot 1/4 MOA so the difference is not much if any. To build a rifle of a certain weight it is best to put the right components together not just the barrel . Example: There are scopes that weigh less that 2 pounds and there are other ones that weigh over 4 pounds. So if you build a rifle that weighs 5.1/2 pounds and then hang a 4 pound scope on it you end up with a heavy rifle. Fluting is not the answer to weight because a fluted barrel will only reduce the weight by less than 1/2 a pound and a fluted # 7 weighs as much as a plain #6 and is no stronger. So look for a lighter scope, rings,bases,stocks if weight is a problem. Just my opinion for what it's worth. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Looking for advice, Fluted/ non-fluted
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