long range load data 300 WSM

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by davebutler, Jan 20, 2009.

  1. davebutler

    davebutler Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2006
    I am having one of my 300 WSM rifles worked on. I am cutting the barrel to 19", having it ported and a flash shield added to protect the crown. In addition to this a trigger job and I am in the process of finding a stock. The rifle shoots better than 1 in now and I hope with the crown and trigger I will be able to do better than that. I want to use this to shoot long range target as well as hunting. I purchased some Barnes triple shock 180 gr and Nosler AccuBond 180gr. I load for several calibers and was wondering if anyone shoots this caliber in the group or has knowledge of the performance at long range by this caliber. I would like to have some loading data if you have any to share as the cost of working up loads is getting higher every day. Thanks in advance for your time and sharing. Dave
     
  2. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,158
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Why are you cutting the barrel so short?
     

  3. longrangefreek

    longrangefreek Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    131
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2008
    my same question.
     
  4. davebutler

    davebutler Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2006
    I am cutting the barrel to reduce weight and to stiffen the whip. I am also adding the flash compensator back which will set the overall to about 21".
     
  5. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,158
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Why not try a 24"-28" medium sporter barrel. Then use a harmonic balancer made by limbsaver. It is a rubber coupling that slides on to the barrel. I am just conserned that with a barrel that short and trying to shoot to any degree of accuracy at a long distance, you just won't have what you are looking for. You would be good out to about 800yrds, but then you are going to run out of steam. You would have to use fast burning powders and a med. weight bullet for efficient burn. Shortening up the barrel for a magnum caliber really reduced the muzzle velocity.
     
  6. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,068
    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    Dave, I have to agree with the others. Shortening barrels is the opposite of what you want to do fo LR shooting. You wil loose a lot of velocity going down to 19". I have a Sako 300 WSM and it has a 24" barrel. When that barrel is shot out, I'll replace it with a 26" #6 flutted.

    As for load info, I have used 65.5 - 66 gr of H4350 for max loads in my rifle with 168 TTSX's and 180 E-Tips. You might try some RL-17 as it is suppoed to produce higher velocities with lower pressures. So far from what I've read, it has given mixed results with great performance for some and average for others. Also, check out reloadersnest.com. They have a lot of recipes for the 300 WSM.

    Good shooting,

    Mark
     
  7. davebutler

    davebutler Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2006
    This evening after reading your replies I called Weatherby tech servic and asked them their advice and opinion. They concluded that I would lose 35 fps per inch when the barrel is cut and would sufficiently hurt the perfomance at the extreme distances. They suggested fluting and a composite stock to reduce weight and just port and crown the barrel. That along with the trigger job should put me in the ballpark. I guess it pays to ask opinions and information from people who have been there done that. Thanks guys and I get back with the results.
     
  8. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,158
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2008
    Sounds like a good idea. I hope the build goes well and would like to see some pics. Good luck!
     
  9. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,068
    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    I would recommend against fluting it for a couple of reasons. First, fluting is best done by the barrel maker during the barrel making process and next, it will decrease the stiffness of your barrel which is probably a #3 or #2 countour from the factory. Just my $.02

    Good shooting
     
  10. 300WSMMAD

    300WSMMAD Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    May 19, 2008
    Hi there,

    My Tikka likes 64 gr ADI 2209 178 gr Amaxs, Devastating on game out to
    600 yrds, after that the big dog gets put up to bat:D.

    Just like my daddy taught me ,"hit em once, hit em hard"

    Regards 300WSMMAD
     
  11. britz

    britz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,217
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2007
    To be honest, having an ultra light rig and having a dedicated long range rig are two different rifles. I am not a gunsmith, but I would be leery of having fluting cut in a featherweight rifle barrel if you want the ultimate accuracy. I too have a 300wsm Tikka w/ a 23.75" barrel and a plastic stock. The rifle weighs just over 6lbs w/o scope and I wouldn't want the rifle any lighter because then I may need a Muzzle brake. You may wish to ask a question about fluting affecting the accuracy of the barrel on the Gunsmithing forum. Guys like JE custom, 50 driver and other gunsmiths or dedicated lrh'ers will give you good advice.

    I shoot 180 gr NAB's and H 4350, CCI BR2's and Win brass with the shoulders bumped and bullets seated to fit the magazine. It shoots .75 MOA out to 500 pretty consistantly and many are in the .5 MOA. As good as I could hope for from a Factory rifle with a lightweight barrel. I don't advertize the powder charge but I am able to get 2945 fps and it does flatten primers a little.
     
  12. Havingfun

    Havingfun Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    363
    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2008
    Dave,

    So far, everyone has parroted what I would have suggested too. Having a barrel fluted after the fact is not a good idea. Too many variables, none of which are condusive to accuracy. Also, the fluting buys you very little in weight savings.

    The single best thing you can do to reduce the weight is change your stock. My suggestion is to look at the Bell & Carlson "Medalist" stock (full aluminum bedding block) which is very lightweight and reasonably priced. For additional weight savings, you can look at the McMillan stocks, any one of which can be produced in their "Edge" technology which produces a stock that weighs in at about 23-24 oz. The McMillans cost considerably more than the B&C (probably in the $600 range in the "Edge" version) and will take about 5 months to get, but you would have the ultimate, light weight stock. And probably have no more tied up in it as you would paying a smithy to do the barrel work you were considering anyway.

    Bottom line is don't mess with the barrel. Save weight in your stock selection.

    Something else to keep in mind, significant reductions in weight mean increase in felt recoil and the balance of the rifle is affected. There is such a thing as "too light". Just things to consider along the way.
    Good luck.
     
  13. davebutler

    davebutler Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2006
    Again, I am so pleased with the respose to my question and the imput that you all have made. I am having the barrel ported and the trigger honed on Tuesday. Our buyers are going to the show durring the first week of February and will be keeping an eye out for a quality stock to use. I have purchased some Barnes 180 triple shock and Nosler AccuBond 180 to load to start with. I have ordered some 168 Berger and Barnes 168 to see how the rifle likes them. As this developes I will try to share the steps along the way. I belive I can have a pretty good shooter with all your help and imput. I have a load that shot one hole for a friend in his Tika and I will be trying it in the rifle first off. Thanks again.... Dave