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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Loctite
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<blockquote data-quote="James Jones" data-source="post: 169426" data-attributes="member: 8843"><p>It sounds like the previous smith used red loctite which is the permanent type and generaly not ever needed with properly fitted parts. The red will turn color after time and with contact with oils and some solvents.</p><p> </p><p>Q) should you use loctite?</p><p>A) yes one some parts like scope base screws , barrel threaded to action </p><p> and any other parts that you don't want to come loose unless you </p><p> want them off and in these applications only BLUE loctite is needed</p><p> </p><p>Q) how to remove red loctite ?</p><p>A) the permanent (red) loctite will break down with heat , about 450deg</p><p> also vibration will break it down and cause to "suger" making it easier</p><p> to remove. for yourm action I woild suggest using a tap to chase the</p><p> threads , NOT A CLEAN BOLT !! a bolt will only ruin the threads on</p><p> both the action and bolt , it need to be cut out with a tap. You can</p><p> use a small torch and heat up the bolt a little and the loctite can be</p><p> removed with a wire wheel or small blade it you don't have a die nut</p><p> </p><p>Q) action screws touqued to 85ft/lbs ????</p><p>A) 85 foot pounds NO , 85 inch pounds maybe , I personaly use 60 inch </p><p> pounds. I don't think that 85 would be needed unless your bedding</p><p> is bad and it takes that much to force the action into the stock and</p><p> that is not going to be dood for accuracy.</p><p> </p><p>Red loctite is for permanent applications and takes moderate heat to remove like I mentioned around 450degs , it will also break down over time with repeated shock and vibration</p><p>Blue loctite is the removable type and is good for applications that you want the screw their till you forcefully remove it.</p><p>Green loctite is also permanent and is used to holt things that have already been fitted together as it will "wick" into the small gap left and is also used for a cylinderical locker as is used for press fit bearings</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="James Jones, post: 169426, member: 8843"] It sounds like the previous smith used red loctite which is the permanent type and generaly not ever needed with properly fitted parts. The red will turn color after time and with contact with oils and some solvents. Q) should you use loctite? A) yes one some parts like scope base screws , barrel threaded to action and any other parts that you don't want to come loose unless you want them off and in these applications only BLUE loctite is needed Q) how to remove red loctite ? A) the permanent (red) loctite will break down with heat , about 450deg also vibration will break it down and cause to "suger" making it easier to remove. for yourm action I woild suggest using a tap to chase the threads , NOT A CLEAN BOLT !! a bolt will only ruin the threads on both the action and bolt , it need to be cut out with a tap. You can use a small torch and heat up the bolt a little and the loctite can be removed with a wire wheel or small blade it you don't have a die nut Q) action screws touqued to 85ft/lbs ???? A) 85 foot pounds NO , 85 inch pounds maybe , I personaly use 60 inch pounds. I don't think that 85 would be needed unless your bedding is bad and it takes that much to force the action into the stock and that is not going to be dood for accuracy. Red loctite is for permanent applications and takes moderate heat to remove like I mentioned around 450degs , it will also break down over time with repeated shock and vibration Blue loctite is the removable type and is good for applications that you want the screw their till you forcefully remove it. Green loctite is also permanent and is used to holt things that have already been fitted together as it will "wick" into the small gap left and is also used for a cylinderical locker as is used for press fit bearings [/QUOTE]
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