Loading for .243win and need some help

BamaPse

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I have had my Ruger No.1 for a while now and have had a brutal time finding a load for it. I tried some stuff with 105 A-max's and no luck and finally think I am making some headway. My most common problem is it throwing 1 bullet horizontally every 3rd shot or so. (Have have been shooting No.1's for a while and know they are a pain in the butt and have done lots to get this thing to shoot as well as it is). Today I loaded some 90gr. Nosler BT's with 39.5gr of IMR4350 (3" vertical string) and then another with the same bullet and 40.5gr of IMR4350 with progress (1.7" with a flyer). I then loaded one more load with the same bullet and 40.2gr of IMR4350 and got the best overall group (.947"). What do you guys think is my next step for this load? I am thinking about going .1-.2 over and under the 40.2gr load and maybe finding the sweet spot.



 
May I suggest you start by verifying the twist rate. 243 can be finicky about bullet weight. The Ruger No. 1 was probably made with a light twist for varmint bullets. I have had success with the 75 grn V - Max in most factory twists. Let us know.
 
Ruger manufactures their .243's with a 9 twist, so I don't believe twist is an issue.

I have a Ruger #1A in 7x57. Out of the box, it had the usual issue with the forearm contacting the barrel. I was just recently able to have a gunsmith fix the issue with a freefloat and bed job on the forearm.

While I did load development for it, I removed the forearm and made sure to rest the front bag directly under the action. Handled this way, it easily shot 3/4" groups with my handloads and with the Federal 175g factory load.

When it comes to handloading, I truly believe that it pays dividends to methodically work from minimum to maximum. I find that watching how the groups behave, not just group size, yields clues as to the location of "nodes" in the powder charge workup. Likewise, finding the rifle's preferred seating depth has proven to me to be an important key to unlocking the accuracy potential with a given bullet.

I believe many handloaders have the tendency to choose powder charges in a more random fashion, looking for the "magic" powder charge. Sometimes it is easy to find with a given rifle/load combination. Other times not. When an accurate powder charge is not easily found, the lack of methodical structure makes it difficult to see what the next step should be. The problem becomes a "finicky rifle" or "My rifle just doesn't like this powder/bullet/primer/brass/etc."

This is what has worked well for me:

http://www.longrangehunting.com/for...accuracy-berger-vld-bullets-your-rifle-40204/

OCW Overview - Dan Newberry's OCW Load Development System

By personal preference, I like to test seating depth first then do my powder charge workup. You can reverse the two tests, though. It doesn't really matter. I have found the Berger seating depth test to work with just about any bullet from any manufacturer. While conducting these two tests, it has never taken me more than 50 rounds with a given bullet/powder combination to find my rifle's best load.

These two test procedures are just examples of how to proceed. There are other ways to do this stuff. The important thing, IMO, is having a methodical, repeatable load development procedure that tests the possible combinations from minimum to maximum loads in an efficient manner. I really think developing a methodology that works for you and that you have faith in, coupled with good record keeping, is the key to developing good loads with even "finicky" rifles.

When you come to the end of your test procedure, you will have seen your rifle's best work with the component combination you are using. If your test didn't yield anything acceptable, then it's probably time to go with a different bullet or powder.

I hope there is something here that proves useful to you. Good luck with your load development!
 
May I suggest you start by verifying the twist rate. 243 can be finicky about bullet weight. The Ruger No. 1 was probably made with a light twist for varmint bullets. I have had success with the 75 grn V - Max in most factory twists. Let us know.

Dig- what is a "light twist" for varmint bullets? a one in 9 ? a one in 10?
 
I am not shooting 105 bullets... I have already gone through the problem with 105gr amax in this rifle. I am now shooting 90gr nosler BT's. I am going to try and work my powder charge up towards the max and see if I get some stability.
 
I won a 1000 yard match with 88 grain bergers. i do not understand why so many try in vain to shoot the longer bullets. the others work great.
 
May I suggest you start by verifying the twist rate. 243 can be finicky about bullet weight. The Ruger No. 1 was probably made with a light twist for varmint bullets. I have had success with the 75 grn V - Max in most factory twists. Let us know.

Dig- do you consider a 95 grain nosler partition a "varmint bullet"?
 
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