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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Load development newb help
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<blockquote data-quote="Jud96" data-source="post: 1255661" data-attributes="member: 69478"><p>First off, I would read your loading manual and try to get another one if you can. The more books you have the more data available to you.</p><p></p><p>As far as powders, every cartridge has its list of powders that have the optimum burn rate for the round's diameter, case capacity, bullet weight, etc. Depending on what bullet weight and barrel length you have, you narrow down those pet powders until you find a few that give the optimum performance with the bullet you intend to shoot and the length of your barrel. Out of the handful of powders that will work, you have to find one or two that is readily available in your area. Since you want to shoot 162s and you most likely have a 26" barrel, look for H4831, H1000, IMR 7828, IMR 7977, RL-22, RL-23, RL-26. Any one of those should get you 3000+ fps and give you the accuracy you are looking for. Most of the time if you select anyone of the powders that are top performers in your given cartridge, you will find an accuracy node. Sometimes you may have to try a couple powders to get everything where you want. </p><p></p><p>For working up loads, try to find 2-3 sources and see what the starting load was for everyone of them. Most of the time they are very close, so you can start at the lowest suggested minimum or average the minimum loads and find your starting point. For a big magnum you can work up in 1gr increments until you find pressure and find your most accurate charges. Once you narrow down the most accurate loads with 1 grain increments, then you can further break them down in .2 or .5 grain charges. From there you will find the best node. In a magnum like a 7mmRM, 0.1gr is a very small percentage of the overall powder charge and often times does not change a whole lot, but you can try it if you choose to. If you are new to reloading and do not understand how to read pressure correctly, then do not exceed maximum book loads. </p><p></p><p>Seating depth has a lot to do with accuracy with certain style bullets. Tangent style ogives like found on most Sierra MatchKings and GameKings are generally not very seat length sensitive, but their Berger VLD counterparts are. I have heard mixed things on seat length with the new ELD-X bullets. Some guys are jumping them a good bit and others are close to the lands. I would measure your rifle's max O.A.L. then back off .020 and see if a round loaded that long will fit in the magazine. If it does fit then start there with your load development and if accuracy doesn't show, back off some more and try them .040 off and if that doesn't work try .060 off and so on. If your mag box won't allow you to feed shells loaded that long, then measure the box, subtract .010 or so for reliability and try them there. </p><p></p><p>Do not crimp. Crimping is only really needed in a semi auto, very hard recoiling rifles, or a tube magazine gun like a .30-30. Ammunition loaded without a crimp will be more consistent and accurate.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jud96, post: 1255661, member: 69478"] First off, I would read your loading manual and try to get another one if you can. The more books you have the more data available to you. As far as powders, every cartridge has its list of powders that have the optimum burn rate for the round's diameter, case capacity, bullet weight, etc. Depending on what bullet weight and barrel length you have, you narrow down those pet powders until you find a few that give the optimum performance with the bullet you intend to shoot and the length of your barrel. Out of the handful of powders that will work, you have to find one or two that is readily available in your area. Since you want to shoot 162s and you most likely have a 26" barrel, look for H4831, H1000, IMR 7828, IMR 7977, RL-22, RL-23, RL-26. Any one of those should get you 3000+ fps and give you the accuracy you are looking for. Most of the time if you select anyone of the powders that are top performers in your given cartridge, you will find an accuracy node. Sometimes you may have to try a couple powders to get everything where you want. For working up loads, try to find 2-3 sources and see what the starting load was for everyone of them. Most of the time they are very close, so you can start at the lowest suggested minimum or average the minimum loads and find your starting point. For a big magnum you can work up in 1gr increments until you find pressure and find your most accurate charges. Once you narrow down the most accurate loads with 1 grain increments, then you can further break them down in .2 or .5 grain charges. From there you will find the best node. In a magnum like a 7mmRM, 0.1gr is a very small percentage of the overall powder charge and often times does not change a whole lot, but you can try it if you choose to. If you are new to reloading and do not understand how to read pressure correctly, then do not exceed maximum book loads. Seating depth has a lot to do with accuracy with certain style bullets. Tangent style ogives like found on most Sierra MatchKings and GameKings are generally not very seat length sensitive, but their Berger VLD counterparts are. I have heard mixed things on seat length with the new ELD-X bullets. Some guys are jumping them a good bit and others are close to the lands. I would measure your rifle's max O.A.L. then back off .020 and see if a round loaded that long will fit in the magazine. If it does fit then start there with your load development and if accuracy doesn't show, back off some more and try them .040 off and if that doesn't work try .060 off and so on. If your mag box won't allow you to feed shells loaded that long, then measure the box, subtract .010 or so for reliability and try them there. Do not crimp. Crimping is only really needed in a semi auto, very hard recoiling rifles, or a tube magazine gun like a .30-30. Ammunition loaded without a crimp will be more consistent and accurate. [/QUOTE]
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