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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
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<blockquote data-quote="Derek M." data-source="post: 213779" data-attributes="member: 2693"><p>I guess I go against the grain on this one. IMO, you should ALWAYS break-in a barrel, or at least the first 20 or so rounds, with the bullet seated INTO the lands. American made custom barrels have a higher sulfur content which makes them a little "softer" than others, like the Walther, which has a very low sulfur content. You can check with a smith on this but you can probably cut a chamber in about an hour using a Broughton, Shilen, Lilja, Hart, etc. It can take about 4x that amount of time to cut into the German made steel. </p><p></p><p>Having a bullet jump during initial shooting increases the risk of creating porosity at the intial rifling. You don't want to do that. Do yourself a favor and seat into the lands for break-in, or at least 20 rounds, then start backing off the lands for devepmnet.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Derek M., post: 213779, member: 2693"] I guess I go against the grain on this one. IMO, you should ALWAYS break-in a barrel, or at least the first 20 or so rounds, with the bullet seated INTO the lands. American made custom barrels have a higher sulfur content which makes them a little "softer" than others, like the Walther, which has a very low sulfur content. You can check with a smith on this but you can probably cut a chamber in about an hour using a Broughton, Shilen, Lilja, Hart, etc. It can take about 4x that amount of time to cut into the German made steel. Having a bullet jump during initial shooting increases the risk of creating porosity at the intial rifling. You don't want to do that. Do yourself a favor and seat into the lands for break-in, or at least 20 rounds, then start backing off the lands for devepmnet. [/QUOTE]
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