leupold Mounts HELP!

ishootkittens

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I just ordered a set of leupold mounts for my browning X-bolt. I opened the package to find only 4 screws in all. I have eight holes on the top of my receiver and I dont think the 4 screws will be enough to secure the scope to the gun. Should I call Leupold and make sure that it wasnt supposed to come with 4 more screws.. or can I order JUST screws from leupold! Help!
 
Unless you are shooting a canon with a 5lbs scope on it four screws should hold it on just fine.

Of course if you cheat and use a little JB weld on the bottom side of the mount to bed it, you add a good bit of grip as well as get a better fit.

Any local gunsmith should have the same screws in stock as well.

Use some sandpaper on the bottom side of the mount to rough it up a little before applying the JB and it'll be that much better.

Keep the JB away from the holes however.

Do all eight holes actually line up?

That's a whole lotta holes.
 
haha thanks wildrose for the quick reply.. but I went ahead and called leupold and they said, "OOPS.. you should have 8 screws in that package, we will send you more screws..*Takes down mailing address*.. Have a nice day and sorry for the mix up."

So now I should be getting the other screws in a couple of days. Thanks for the response though!
 
haha thanks wildrose for the quick reply.. but I went ahead and called leupold and they said, "OOPS.. you should have 8 screws in that package, we will send you more screws..*Takes down mailing address*.. Have a nice day and sorry for the mix up."

So now I should be getting the other screws in a couple of days. Thanks for the response though!
What mount did you order? All of the leupold mounts I've ever used had either three or four screws?

You got me scratching my head here pretty good HA!

Oh, on bedding the mount, when you apply the JB and put it on the rifle, barely, and I mean barely snug the screws down. Give it 24 hours and then fully tighten them.

As for "fully tightening", just use the little wrench they include, use the long end to the nut and hold the short end and don't tighten them any more than you can holding the short end. That is unless you have a torque wrench/driver. If so set it at no more than 14 in/lbs.

Those little suckers are way to easy to snap off with over torquing and that gets to be a real expensive pain in the *** when you have to take the whole thing to the gun smith to try and drill them out and pull them with an ez out.
 
I got a 2 piece mount for my X-bolt.



Skip ahead and Pause at 1:31!

that is my dilemma. They have 8 holes in the receiver and I only received four screws! Leupold admitted that it should have 8 screws and are sending me some screws tomorrow free of charge.

i have a torque wrench and i know to never over tighten. My burris rings will be here tomorow and I just got my vortex scope in the mail today as well! So at the end of the week I should be ready to shoot.
 
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Boy! That little video spits out a bunch of poop! If it requires THAT MUCH resistance to recoil..etc...put force fitted dowel pins in it...not more screws. Screw thread fasteners CLAMP DOWN....not resist shear forces....geeze
 
Boy! That little video spits out a bunch of poop! If it requires THAT MUCH resistance to recoil..etc...put force fitted dowel pins in it...not more screws. Screw thread fasteners CLAMP DOWN....not resist shear forces....geeze
Well actually they do both, but the tighter the screw is the less shearing force it will resist.

Of course they could have accomplished the same thing by just using larger diameter screws, but firearms engineers have been over complicating things in new designs since the dawn of firearms HA!
 
Well actually they do both, but the tighter the screw is the less shearing force it will resist.

Of course they could have accomplished the same thing by just using larger diameter screws, but firearms engineers have been over complicating things in new designs since the dawn of firearms HA!

Well...that only flys right in the face of what I was taught for 35 years designing jet engine hardware! You dont "thread to head" anything you want to handle shear loads...thusly you have bolts and such with a full diameter non threaded area at the upper part.
 
Well...that only flys right in the face of what I was taught for 35 years designing jet engine hardware! You dont "thread to head" anything you want to handle shear loads...thusly you have bolts and such with a full diameter non threaded area at the upper part.
When you build a jet engine you are looking for maximum shear resistance so you go for the max.

To claim that bolts do not resist shearing flies in the face of basic physics not to mention metallurgy. They do, just not as well as a dowel because the dowel is not weakened by the threads, nor strained due to the torquing of the screw. More shear resistance for one does not mean the other has none.

If the torx screws didn't resist shearing everyone's scope would shear off the rifle the first time it's fired.
 
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When you build a jet engine you are looking for maximum shear resistance so you go for the max.

To claim that bolts do not resist shearing flies in the face of basic physics not to mention metallurgy. They do, just not as well as a dowel because the dowel is not weakened by the threads, nor strained due to the torquing of the screw. More shear resistance for one does not mean the other has none.

If the torx screws didn't resist shearing everyone's scope would shear off the rifle the first time it's fired.

I didnt say they DO NOT...what I said was if shear resistance is what you are seeking..they basically are the wrong fastener. And the reason why Torx drive screws are used is because too many "cobs" ( hence the term cobbed up) wont use the proper screw driver for the slot in the head of a normal sloted screw, to mount ad ring makers include the proper Torx wrench with the items.
 
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