Learning the ropes

[Navigator1]

Hi all. New to the forum. Joined to stay "in the know" about long range hunting and shooting.

After reading and searching the web, I have a lot of questions but I will start of with a these 3:

1) Is it possible to build a "frankinstein" where you buy sepreate bolt/action combo, barrel and stock combo, and have the gun accurized? Or is it required to start with a factory gun?

2) In selecting an action and bolt what should I know and look for? Can more than one bolt work for a particular caliber? Or is there only one type of bolt that works per caliber. Example: I am looking into building a .338 RUM or Lapua. Can I get a bolt and action setup from savage, rem, and others? Or is the caliber somehow connected to the brand of action and bolt? Is the setup for the lapua compatible with the setup for the RUM? If not, then what is different? How does the chambering of the barrel affect this decision as well?

3) I looked at other custom rem 700's and there barrels seem to be rather thick. What do I need to look for when choosing a barrel and stock? How do I know the barrel will match the channel on the fore end of the stock here the barrel will be seated? If I buy a factory rem 700 and buy a long range barrel will it fit into any rem 700 stock? Or is there something I need to know in order to insure compatibility the differenct factory stock and aftermarket stock types? I also see "#5" and "#7" in reference to barrel data. What do these numbers mean and/or reference?

I asked alot, i do realize. This should help get me to the next plateau of knowledge and rescue me from some of my ignorance.

Thanks for all who can help me get pointed in the right direction.

 

[trebark]

1. yes - you can build a 'frankenstein'. You can buy all components separately and have a gunsmith assemble. You can also buy a factory gun and build on it as your knowledge and skills increase. Here are some examples....

My nephew's rifle is a factory that has been accurized....

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/

I did similarly with my 308...

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-308-1k-rifle-evolution-continues-43510/

Then I used the action from the 308 to build a full custom 260....

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-260-mcr-59628/


2. Bolts are not interchangable. Savage will not work in Remington and Remington will not work in Savage. Pretty much once you have an action and bolt set-up, you need to keep the bolt with the action.

You can get a bolt and action in 338 RUM or Lapua for Savage or Remington. The chambering of the rifle affects the bolt in that your bolt face has to be the right size for the cartridge you intend to shoot. So lets say for instance that the action you use was originally used for a non-magnum, the bolt-face will need to be opened up to accommodate the RUM or Lapua.

3. What to look for in a barrel and stock....you need to match them to the task you intend. You will notice that my nephew's rifle configuration is quite different than my 260. That's because nephew's rifle is all-purpose. He only has one gun so it's set up to both carry in the thick stuff and shoot long range. My 260 is a dedicated long-range rig.

#5 or #7...this refers to barrel contour. This is no 'standardization' to these numbers. If you look at custom barrel makers, you will find that a Hart #5 is not the same as Krieger #5.

Realize this doesn't answer all your questions, but it's a start.

 

[BigSkyGP]

The only dumb questions, are the ones not asked.

There are not usually direct fit stocks in this buisness, even for a stock rifle. You need to have experience with wood working, metal working, etc. Use a reputable gunsmith, most guys do. Keep reading here.

how much money you have to spend will tell you more what you can/can't do with a rifle.

 

[Aldon]

Continue to pour through all the posts here and learn to use the search function to sift through the historical posts.

Note that the reason most of the barrels you have viewed are "thick" is mostly due to the ability to dissapate or take a bit more heat. Good to have for PD'ing or range work.

If you are mechanically inclined and are OK with the aesthetics or looks of the Savage, then it is probably the most cost effective and can be argued best route to take.

I myself have toyed with them but keep drifting back to Remington 700's and the occasional Winchester Model 70.

One of these days I will take the plunge and by custom Action and build a rifle from ground up but the 700's work so well I have not been able to justify the need yet.

Not sure about your question of interchangeable bolts...

Bolts can be used with multiple cartidge designs that have the same base design/diameter within the same make of rifle. Here is a lhelpful ink.... http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/bolt-face-diameters-36661/

 

[Buffalobob]

The reason barrels are thick is for stiffness. This reduces harmonic vibration of the cantilever suspension of barrels from the action while the bullet is traveling down the barrel.

 

[BigSkyGP]

Well, maybe he's busy, reading and studying. If he is, he'll have a pile of questions to ask us.

Then again, maybe we scared him off.

 

[Navigator1]

Lol. No, not scared off. Just had a bunch of after thanksgiving shopping to do.

Thank you all for the replies.

I do have a few follow ups.

I am looking at the Rem 700's and The only ones that come in .338 RUM is the XCR and the XCR II.

The SPS Tactical has a nice fat barrel but it is very short and only comes in .308 for a .30 cal option.

I am really considering the Lapua due to the feedback in performance from shooters much more experienced than myself.

This leaves me with a cross road in choice of rifle. Advice I think would be helpful here.

If I get the Rem 700 SPS Tact in .308, since it has a thicker barrel, would the idea be that I just replace the barrel and bolt for the .338 and the rest of the gun is fairly compatible with maybe some minor stock work?

If I go with the XCR in .338 RUM then I basically would need a new stock and barrel to get a thicker setup?

Lastly, if I go with the XCR and decided to go with the Lapua what if the orginal XCR would actually be compatible with the .338 Lapua parts?

Just so it makes since, my vision is a long range shooter with i thick barrel, comfortable ergonomical stock, and a precision smithed bolt and barrel setup(blueprinted). I want a quality gun that can become something that will last and I can pass down to my newborn son one day.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[BigSkyGP]

>Navigator1, I have lots of Q's for you. What do you shoot now? What and how far do you want/need to shoot?

Lol. No, not scared off. Just had a bunch of after thanksgiving shopping to do.

Thank you all for the replies.

I do have a few follow ups.

I am looking at the Rem 700's and The only ones that come in .338 RUM is the XCR and the XCR II.

The SPS Tactical has a nice fat barrel but it is very short and only comes in .308 for a .30 cal option.

>Short Fat barrels are extremely acurate, to about 1kyds in 308Win and similar cases. Powder selection comes into play here. Short barrels don't burn all of slow powders, and fouls the bore, and you lose a little MV. Barrel length fot LRS/LRH need to compliment case capacity, and powder burn rates. This will maximize speed and distance.

I am really considering the Lapua due to the feedback in performance from shooters much more experienced than myself.

>I'm not all that knowledgeable about Lapua other than they have great brass, and the 338 is a beast that I don't need.

This leaves me with a cross road in choice of rifle. Advice I think would be helpful here.

If I get the Rem 700 SPS Tact in .308, since it has a thicker barrel, would the idea be that I just replace the barrel and bolt for the .338 and the rest of the gun is fairly compatible with maybe some minor stock work?

> Now your confusing me. 338 what? 308 win is usually put in short action rifles that won't feed/cycle 338 Lapua. Now 338Fed is of the same family of cases as 308 Win, and you could do that. 338Fed doesn't shoot near as far as the larger 338 Lapua.

If I go with the XCR in .338 RUM then I basically would need a new stock and barrel to get a thicker setup?

>You will need to open up the original stock, to fit the larger barrel. Not necessarely replace the stock

Lastly, if I go with the XCR and decided to go with the Lapua what if the orginal XCR would actually be compatible with the .338 Lapua parts?

> Huh?

Just so it makes since, my vision is a long range shooter with i thick barrel, comfortable ergonomical stock, and a precision smithed bolt and barrel setup(blueprinted). I want a quality gun that can become something that will last and I can pass down to my newborn son one day.

>If you want something to pass down, chamber up in something that doesn't burn out barrels in less than 5k rounds

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Lexthepilot]

If you are planning on going with a .338 lapua round I would avoid the .308 factory rifle. It is a short action which is fine for .308 being that the round is only around 2.75" long. But the .338 lapua is almost a full inch longer of a round and could make it difficult to eject or load rounds in a short action. Also if this is to be your practice rifle as well make sure you are comfortable with the cost of ammunition for .338 lapua rounds. Loaded rounds can be pretty ridiculous if my memory serves me correctly. And I have found that the gun and optics are FAR cheaper than feeding it lol. If you are still looking at the lapua Remington makes a factory heavy barreled rem. 700 in .338 lapua. If you are planning on changing to different calibers though I highly recommend looking into a savage. Barrels can be changed with a few cheap tools in the comfort of your garage and there is no machining required to change the bolt head. Savage bolt heads are removable. And not only that but they are deadly accurate from my experience. I have a .308 model 12 that puts three rounds into a ragged hole at 100 yards and is a joy to shoot.