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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Learning the basics/becoming competent
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 106123" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>The Nosler book has the very best procedure for determining seating depth. No need for all the fancy gauges. I use that method for all my non Weatherby rifles that have long enugh bullets to reach out for a reading.</p><p></p><p>When to stop using the brass? That is easy. Either when a primer will no longer stay in place or the necks split. If you are full length sizing then lots of trimming and eventual head separations will further shorten case life. Full length sizing done properly will prevent head separations. More on that later and it is covered in the manuals. I just don't get caught up in everything I read. I never trim necks for thickness, weigh brass, or uniform primer pockets. I don't even clean primer pockets. What I do, is tumble all my brass before sizing for 24 hours in walnut media. Then when I size it the decapping pin pushes the media out of the flash holes. I also debur the inside only on the necks so the bullets go in easy. I use Lee Collet dies so I only neck size. Eventually the brass loses it elasticity and then I have to anneal the necks. Some brass will last 20 firings. Some will last 2. Depends on how you treat them and the pressures you run. </p><p></p><p>If you stick to book loads, stay off the rifling and neck size with collet dies I would expect at least 10 times with out doing anything. This is why a good hand tool for priming and a single stage press is so important. It will give you a good feel for when things are right (like new) or all used up. Your gut will tell you and it you get something weird you can always post it here. </p><p></p><p>I like loading mainly for the cost savings and the ability to custom make ammo for my specific applications and custom fit to each rifle. Even my exact duplicate guns like my matched pair of 22-250's Ruger varminters and 257 Wby Accumarks do not share brass. Each gun has it's own box of 100 cases.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 106123, member: 1290"] The Nosler book has the very best procedure for determining seating depth. No need for all the fancy gauges. I use that method for all my non Weatherby rifles that have long enugh bullets to reach out for a reading. When to stop using the brass? That is easy. Either when a primer will no longer stay in place or the necks split. If you are full length sizing then lots of trimming and eventual head separations will further shorten case life. Full length sizing done properly will prevent head separations. More on that later and it is covered in the manuals. I just don't get caught up in everything I read. I never trim necks for thickness, weigh brass, or uniform primer pockets. I don't even clean primer pockets. What I do, is tumble all my brass before sizing for 24 hours in walnut media. Then when I size it the decapping pin pushes the media out of the flash holes. I also debur the inside only on the necks so the bullets go in easy. I use Lee Collet dies so I only neck size. Eventually the brass loses it elasticity and then I have to anneal the necks. Some brass will last 20 firings. Some will last 2. Depends on how you treat them and the pressures you run. If you stick to book loads, stay off the rifling and neck size with collet dies I would expect at least 10 times with out doing anything. This is why a good hand tool for priming and a single stage press is so important. It will give you a good feel for when things are right (like new) or all used up. Your gut will tell you and it you get something weird you can always post it here. I like loading mainly for the cost savings and the ability to custom make ammo for my specific applications and custom fit to each rifle. Even my exact duplicate guns like my matched pair of 22-250's Ruger varminters and 257 Wby Accumarks do not share brass. Each gun has it's own box of 100 cases. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Learning the basics/becoming competent
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