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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Lathe question
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<blockquote data-quote="Fitch" data-source="post: 344043" data-attributes="member: 19372"><p>That'll work.</p><p> </p><p>I polish chambers, and other ID surfaces, using a wood dowel with a slot sawed in the end. Auto parts stores have selections of wet and dry usually from 400 to 1,000 grit. I usually use a dowel about 2/3's the diameter of the ID I'm polishing and dip the paper in cutting oil before I use it. Stick a piece about 4 diameters long in the dowel, slide it into the chamber, then turn on the lathe at the highest speed. The oil both drags the paper out against the surface being polished and tends to keep it clean by floating the particles out from between the paper and the metal. </p><p> </p><p>Keep it moving in and out to get a cross hatch - doesn't take more than 15 to 20 seconds, with each grit. </p><p> </p><p>With the rod noticably smaller than the chamber there is little chance it will grab but I hold it loosely anyway. </p><p> </p><p>Fitch</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fitch, post: 344043, member: 19372"] That'll work. I polish chambers, and other ID surfaces, using a wood dowel with a slot sawed in the end. Auto parts stores have selections of wet and dry usually from 400 to 1,000 grit. I usually use a dowel about 2/3's the diameter of the ID I'm polishing and dip the paper in cutting oil before I use it. Stick a piece about 4 diameters long in the dowel, slide it into the chamber, then turn on the lathe at the highest speed. The oil both drags the paper out against the surface being polished and tends to keep it clean by floating the particles out from between the paper and the metal. Keep it moving in and out to get a cross hatch - doesn't take more than 15 to 20 seconds, with each grit. With the rod noticably smaller than the chamber there is little chance it will grab but I hold it loosely anyway. Fitch [/QUOTE]
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Lathe question
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