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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Lapping A Barrel
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1786709" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I have done many factory barrels and the correct way is to do a minimum lap using a lead lap cast in the bore near the muzzle several inches long so it will follow the rifling accurately. I like to use a non embedding compound with 1200 to 1500 grit so it just takes the high spots off and doesn't reduce the diameter any measurable amount. Valve grinding compounds and other 400 to 800 grits are to aggressive and will do more damage than good. I tighten the lap so it wont turn on the rod so I can start it in the groves in front of the freebore of the chamber and push it all the way through without stopping. I also recommend using a bore guide to start the lap straight in an effort to save the lead angle and the first 1/2 " on the bore. (If you saw it back and forth It will bell out the muzzle and the breach end of the barrel, hurting accuracy).</p><p></p><p>After the first lap is used and begins to wear, I like to cast a new one and put the finishing touch on the bore following the same procedure. When you buy a custom hand lapped barrel, This belling is cut from the muzzle and the reamer takes care of it on the chamber end. I prefer not to do factory barrels because it will take away from barrel life and if not done sparingly, hurt accuracy. Lapping a factory is a last ditch effort to capture some reasonable accuracy. </p><p></p><p>This is just what works for me</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1786709, member: 2736"] I have done many factory barrels and the correct way is to do a minimum lap using a lead lap cast in the bore near the muzzle several inches long so it will follow the rifling accurately. I like to use a non embedding compound with 1200 to 1500 grit so it just takes the high spots off and doesn't reduce the diameter any measurable amount. Valve grinding compounds and other 400 to 800 grits are to aggressive and will do more damage than good. I tighten the lap so it wont turn on the rod so I can start it in the groves in front of the freebore of the chamber and push it all the way through without stopping. I also recommend using a bore guide to start the lap straight in an effort to save the lead angle and the first 1/2 " on the bore. (If you saw it back and forth It will bell out the muzzle and the breach end of the barrel, hurting accuracy). After the first lap is used and begins to wear, I like to cast a new one and put the finishing touch on the bore following the same procedure. When you buy a custom hand lapped barrel, This belling is cut from the muzzle and the reamer takes care of it on the chamber end. I prefer not to do factory barrels because it will take away from barrel life and if not done sparingly, hurt accuracy. Lapping a factory is a last ditch effort to capture some reasonable accuracy. This is just what works for me J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Lapping A Barrel
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