Just a warning

[eddybo]

to you guys. I just got my new lathe so expect a bunch of stupid questions. While I had the forklift I finally got my mill off of the crate too. So it is probably going to be double duty stupid questions. I hope yall will bear with me. I am not a complete novice as I have owned and used a lathe/mill combo for several years, but I do not know much compared to you guys. Any tips appreciated.

I have a buddy coming to help me level and set up my lathe tomorrow. What, other than leveling the lathe, should I do before I get started whittling on metal.

 

[NesikaChad]

My two bits

If at all possible, bolt that sucker to the floor. Surface finishes will improve.

The "ideal" set up; cut out the slab foot print of each machine from the floor and poor a new one that is isolated from the rest of the floor. This keeps any vibration local and doesn't transmit to other nearby machines that may be running.

I realize this is not realistic in many applications and many consider it waaaay overkill. However it is viable. Many machine tool equipment manufacturers won't even warranty a machine unless it is set up in this manner (Kitamura, Okuma, Deckel, etc. . .)

Surface finishes are better, but none the less, bolt the machine to the floor if at all possible.

Good luck, enjoy your new toys.

 

[edge]

An alternative to drilling the slab is to use a Liqi-lag system. Clean the floor real well and epoxy a steel bedding plate to the floor. If done right it is solid!

Also after you level it get a large piece of stock and cut it at least 12 inches long and measure it. Get all taper out to within 0.0001 and you will be happy that you did. Also ensure that when you cut with a center that it is within the same 0.0001, you would be surprised how bad some tailstocks are. If your is good when you get it I will be VERY surprised!

edge.

 

[James Jones]

Yep , agreed with everybody else it needs to be anchored to the floor , even as big that the monster you have is the harmonics will make your finish poor , we anchor all our to the floor via big lags that are set in place at the time the machines slab is poured , can't realy do that in your case , then the machine is elveled and squared then cement is pumped up into the feet and its grouted out , this wa the machines is basicaly screwed and glued to the floor trying to make the tool and its pad one piece.

In your case simply bolting it down should work just fine , at 6000+lbs you shoulden't get to much bad viberation and I dubt that you will be running the lathe and mill at the same time..

My shoulder is doing pretty good considering it was done Tuesday , the wife doesn't want me to drive till next week , if you want pick a day and I'll tote all this stuff up to ya.

Take care

 

[NesikaChad]

Hauling

Derailing the thread for just a sec.

James, do you haul equipment for a living?

I have some purchases pending. . .PM if interested.

Thanks.

 

[boomtube]

J.J.: "My shoulder is doing pretty good considering it was done Tuesday , the wife doesn't want me to drive till next week ,"

If you are refering to a rotator cuff surgery, let the wife win this one. Strive to give it several weeks before you put even light loads on those damaged tendons. It takes VERY little stress to re-tear any such internal cut-and-paste jobs and that decreases the possiblility of a total restoration. Don't ask how I know, but believe it when I say it can still hurt and be weak even after almost 2 years if you do tear it now.

 

[James Jones]

Chad , I'm a Millwright/machinest for Lockheed Martin , I install and setup alot of their manual stuff ,the vendors get to install the big NC toys , I don't do any moving or stuff like that , sorry.

Boomtube , the should job was simple "Distal clavical AC impingment" just went in a cleaned out some scar tissue/calcium build up , had the right should done 5 yrs ago for same thing , the bggest recovery is the big holes the bore through each of my delt heads , unfortunatly the bigger the muscle the deeper the hole = longer recovery. The wife is an OR nurse and she thinks she knows everything

Eddybo , just pic a day and let me know

 

[James Jones]

Their is a wealth of knowledge here , several great gun builders all with slightly differant ways to go about things and seems everybody is always eager to offer advise , plus luckly you have the old man down the road a way to drop in on and referance oppinions to also . (he may starve to death if you start building your own guns) , its still hard for me to get my head around some of his ideas but its hard to argue with sombody thats got world records all of the wall in his shop and can set another at any time.
Also I've got the start of an action jig for you here , kind of a beefed up Tannel deal made from better material

 

[eddybo]

James,

Glad to hear your shoulder is doing fine...DO NOT REINJURE IT FOOLING AROUND WITH STUFF FOR ME....I have plenty of time. I wrapped that action up but Mr. don will have to do the transfer to you.

I had been meaning to ask about that action trueing jig....as that is where most of my interest lies. I bought the gre-tan dvds for action trueing and bolt sleeving. I will send them with you to watch if you havent seen them. I got my mandrels and bushings in the other day.

Maybe I do not have enough experiance, but I disagree with one step he uses. He is infinately more knowledgeable about such things, but why would he true the bolt up from the stock firing pin hole? I would want to indicate off of the rim that encircles the cartridge head then bush the firing pin in the center of the bolt face first. Maybe what I am thinking isnt even feasible. It seems that by indicating on the firing pin hole that is .004 out and cutting all surfaces to that reference that unless you put a truing cut on the inside of the rim that encircles the case head. I wouldnt think one would want to take any material from the bolt nose so it would be the best place to indicate from. But as I stated I dunno and am still a longway from actually chucking up a receiver.

Guys,

I have the machine leveled and have the electrician coming this afternoon to get his equipment list to wire in the phase converter etc.

I have a buddy who works at the CO2 pumping station near my home who just offered to grout the machine to the floor for me. Before I let him do it, here is what he proposed. Drilling holes in the floor and setting pins around the perimiter then grouting the machine as it sits. Would this be sufficient? It is sitting on the screw levelers that thread through the base of the machine. I do not ever ever ever plan on moving this machine and it is free labor. What do you think let him do it? I am not thinking I want to move the machine at all in order to bolt since it is perfectly level right now. Should wait until I run the machine a bit before grouting it to the floor?

Thanks for taking the time to give me your opinions.

 

[James Jones]

Setting pins and grouting the machine to them is basicaly locking the machine to the floor , uless you want to drill threaded anchors and screw the machne down to them that sounds like a very solid mount. If he is willing to do it for free and he knows what hesdoing then I'd let him (just remember , nothing is ever free) If he does this kind of work at a CO2 station then he has probably mounted alot of compressors which generate ALOT more viberation than a lathe will.

A for indicating off the firing pin hole I'm not sure how hes doing that , a live center in the pin hole?
in order to true the action back to blueprint you need to find a common medium for the bolt and the reciever ,in this case the bolt body and bolt race way , you setup your mandrels in the action and dial the action in to zero on the indication rod , both at the action face and at the far end of the rod , this insures that your action is running true on the bolt race way , you true the internal lugs , chase the threads out .010" and true the reciever face now the reciever is square to the bolt race way , the bolt itself needs to be indicated off of the bolt body , their is a couple ways to do that , either with a jig that holds the bolt back close to the handel and exposses a bit more than half the bolt body so useing a spud that screws into the rear of the bolt so that you have somthing to clamp the chuck onto then using a collar over the bolt head set it up in the steady rest ,use a dial at the rear of the bolt by the handle and one up behind the head dial it in to zero then cut your rear locking lugs , the bolt face , nose , and front of the lugs so its just leaning up the surface now the bolt head is square to the bolt body and everything is back to "blueprint" ,but like I say theirs a bunch of differant way it can be done.

Some people don't do antyhing to the action except true the face up a little and hand lap the lugs , they claim that its a waist of time and as long as the chamber is cut properly and the barrel is good you can set the round off with a hammer and it'll shoot , again how do you argue with a track record like he has?

I've got all your stuff in my garage and can load and unlad it with a little chain fall I have in their ,no worries on that. , Anybody up that way looking for a good 12ga , perfect for running dogs , turkeys of 2 legged varmints.
I'll give you a call Monday if your planning to go see the old man I'll treat to lunch