Is a stock Remington 700P .308 a 1000 yard gun?

[goattman]

So, I have a .308 700P. Bone stock. Vortex Viper PST 6-24 FFP. The scope sits on a *** aluminum Weaver 20 MOA rail. I needed to add a .010" shim under the back of the rail because when the front was tight, there was a .010" gap in the back. Leupold PRW steel rings. With this set up and a 100 yard zero, I have 44 MOA of elevation. (Does this seem about right as it is a 60 MOA scope?)

So I am thinking a nice steel rail may help. At least the shimming issue, and maybe a better rail will add a few MOA. With this in mind, I stop at the LGS at my local range. I ask if they can get a Ken Farrell rail. After looking, no. Man behind the counter inquires what it is going on. I give the above info. "How far are you looking to shoot" 1000 yards I reply. "Never do it with that gun. You need Vortex HD with larger tube and a custom action. When you're ready to shoot that far, come in and we will build you a gun that will do it."

Besides the fact that he came off as sounding like a used car salesman, is he right? Of course, I replied that in the '60's guys were making those kinds of shots and would have given their left nut to have the set up I have...

I have already shot steel at 800 yards with same gun, sans the scope that at the time was a Leupold VX-II 3-12.

Today I fired a 3 shot group at 600 yards. One flier cause I miss read the wind. The other 2 were within .25" of each other in elevation, and 2" apart in windage.

Finally, my ballistic calculator, that seems to fit my rifle and loads extremely well, says 42 MOA at 1000 yards. I have 44 MOA. Should I go to 30 MOA, or get 20 MOA (Ken Farrell) and see if the better rail magically adds a few MOA?

Almost forgot most important part... Shooting paper and steel only at 1000 yards!

Current load data: SMK 168 over 44.0 gr IMR 4064 in Wichester/Black Hills brass with CCI BR2 primer clocked at 2650 fps. I realize I may need to work up a 175 gr load.

 

[MMERSS]

Yes the 308 in any configuration can make a 1000 yard target gun. Search F/TR and see for yourself.

 

[liltank]

You can do it. If you have 44MOA, that will be just enough. It will take somewhere between 39 and 43 MOA for 1000 depending on velocity and bullet.

 

[Michael Eichele]

You can get a 30 MOA rail to give you a little extra. You will still need to shim the rear but I still feel like a 1 peice rail is a more reliable mounting option.

Btw, the factory PSS 308 is a fine 1000 yard rifle as long as you don't expect great numbers in regards windage. That said, the 190 VLD, 208 Amax and maybe some of the newer Berger 200's seriously reduce windage.

Once you start practicing with a 308 you'll want to hunt with it too! Accuracy, consistency, mild recoil and enough 'power' to get the job done.

 

[goattman]

You can get a 30 MOA rail to give you a little extra. You will still need to shim the rear but I still feel like a 1 peice rail is a more reliable mounting option.

Why are you so sure I will need to shim? I am hoping that a quality rail will have the proper manufacturing to eliminate the need for a shim. I didn't shim for the elevation, I shimmed to correct the poor fit.

 

[Michael Eichele]

Why are you so sure I will need to shim? I am hoping that a quality rail will have the proper manufacturing to eliminate the need for a shim. I didn't shim for the elevation, I shimmed to correct the poor fit.

It's usually the tolerances of the actions that vary. Most 700 actions fall short and need shims or to be bedded.

 

[goattman]

ME, thanks. I was hoping it was the rail.

 

[liltank]

Yep, Michael is our resident 308 guru. I ran some numbers in my current location (Central PA). With a 175 SMK, you'll need 40.0MOA at 2650fps which is the norm. If you want to run the 210 Berger, you'll need 37.3MOA at 2500fps. Both these velocities are very doable. My current numbers according to my GPS on my shooter app are the following for both numbers: 595ft., 30.49 Baro, 46deg, 30% Humidity.

As far as a base, look into the EGW HD 20MOA. I believe they have a taller one also. I really their bases.

 

[WildRose]

So, I have a .308 700P. Bone stock. Vortex Viper PST 6-24 FFP. The scope sits on a *** aluminum Weaver 20 MOA rail. I needed to add a .010" shim under the back of the rail because when the front was tight, there was a .010" gap in the back. Leupold PRW steel rings. With this set up and a 100 yard zero, I have 44 MOA of elevation. (Does this seem about right as it is a 60 MOA scope?)

So I am thinking a nice steel rail may help. At least the shimming issue, and maybe a better rail will add a few MOA. With this in mind, I stop at the LGS at my local range. I ask if they can get a Ken Farrell rail. After looking, no. Man behind the counter inquires what it is going on. I give the above info. "How far are you looking to shoot" 1000 yards I reply. "Never do it with that gun. You need Vortex HD with larger tube and a custom action. When you're ready to shoot that far, come in and we will build you a gun that will do it."

Besides the fact that he came off as sounding like a used car salesman, is he right? Of course, I replied that in the '60's guys were making those kinds of shots and would have given their left nut to have the set up I have...

I have already shot steel at 800 yards with same gun, sans the scope that at the time was a Leupold VX-II 3-12.

Today I fired a 3 shot group at 600 yards. One flier cause I miss read the wind. The other 2 were within .25" of each other in elevation, and 2" apart in windage.

Finally, my ballistic calculator, that seems to fit my rifle and loads extremely well, says 42 MOA at 1000 yards. I have 44 MOA. Should I go to 30 MOA, or get 20 MOA (Ken Farrell) and see if the better rail magically adds a few MOA?

Almost forgot most important part... Shooting paper and steel only at 1000 yards!

Current load data: SMK 168 over 44.0 gr IMR 4064 in Wichester/Black Hills brass with CCI BR2 primer clocked at 2650 fps. I realize I may need to work up a 175 gr load.

If it's shooting that well you should still be able to hold MOA to 1,000yds.

Instead of trying to shim the scope I'd bed it with JB weld or devcon.

If anything I'd buy a decent quality 10 or 20MOA rail to replace it and just bed it in from the start.

 

[goattman]

Bedding instead of shimming? Bedding seems more accurate (conforming exactly), shimming more durable and stable. Not nearly as messy either.

Is JB weld really durable enough?

I think I just hijacked my own thread!

 

[WildRose]

Bedding instead of shimming? Bedding seems more accurate (conforming exactly), shimming more durable and stable. Not nearly as messy either.

Is JB weld really durable enough?

I think I just hijacked my own thread!

No shimming is not more durable or stable.

JB weld works great, so does devcon.

clean both surfaces well with a little steel wool and acetone, thinly apply the epoxy and then just barely snug the screws down just enough to get solid contact.

Use a qtip or exacto to remove most of the excess and use a cotton ball or the other end of the q tip wetted with just a tad of the acetone to remove and smooth the rest.

After 24 hours torque the screws on down and it'll be set for life.

 

[longrangebo]

I think you may want to check your drop charts, 44 moa would be more like 1400-1500 I am fairly shure you will reach 1000 yds. with about 25 moa.

 

[longrangebo]

My bad, ran the numbers and it is 37.5 I was thinking 300 Win mag. I am used to much flatter shooting guns HaHaHa

 

[goattman]

If it's shooting that well you should still be able to hold MOA to 1,000yds.

Instead of trying to shim the scope I'd bed it with JB weld or devcon.

If anything I'd buy a decent quality 10 or 20MOA rail to replace it and just bed it in from the start.

"If it's shooting that well"... Now I'm thinking, if it ain't broke why fix it? The scope lives on my rifle. Anyone see any opportunity for long term problems with the aluminum Weaver rail and my homemade .010" shim? I used a SS feeler gauge.