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The Basics, Starting Out
Introductory posts and a build log...
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<blockquote data-quote="StumpyJohnson" data-source="post: 2461911" data-attributes="member: 122458"><p>First, there is so much fantastic in your post that I want to thank you for taking the time to learn me a bit. Truly, thank you.</p><p></p><p>Now I'll try to answer these questions as much for myself as to you.</p><p></p><p>1. I hope to shoot some deer, a pig, maybe an elk, but quite a bit of steel too. I would like to take game, but I want to make sure I'm prepared for the aftermath of the kill before attempting it. Honor the animal whose life I took. At the end of the day I like shooting. </p><p></p><p>2. I've heard there is magic in a 6.5 caliber bullet in the 140grn weight. That said I'll shoot non-lead. So, I'd like to target 125ish grn for the 26 nosler for everything but elk. If I can get consistent accuracy at 3200 - 3300 fps I'll be happy. </p><p></p><p>For the 28 I'd be looking at the 150grn mark at 3000-3200 fps to start. My nosler m48 liberty plays well in that range</p><p>And I have plenty of components. BUT a 160 to 168 grn pill would be great to explore.</p><p></p><p>Overall I'll start with the 26 to build out the rifle and learn. Moving into the 28 as I progress.</p><p></p><p>3. I'm thinking my build will be in the the 8 to 12 pound range. I have the stated weights of the components mostly compiled, and I will update the build log section to project the weights in various configurations as soon as work gives me a moment to breath. I've order the stock with qd cups fore and rear on the left side for sling carriage. I'd like a slightly front heavy balance, balance point at a hands width forward of the trigger guard.</p><p></p><p>4. I do well with an LOP in the 13.5 to 14.5 range. I prefer slightly shorter, but I'm pretty lanky and long limbed. I shoot best with my elbows close to body, bringing weight to my core when standing. I also wear glasses so some distance between me and the scope is preferred. Prone or otherwise positioned I like to cuddle and drape myself over the rifle. I often find I need to raise the comb of the stock with a cheek piece or adjustable comb.</p><p></p><p>5. I'm understating my mechanical ability here a bit. I've inlet a wood stock from a blank and bedded a Mauser action with enough success that I'm not ashamed of the result. That said one of my best friends is an extremely accomplished machinist, he can accomplish any gunsmithing to a mechanical drawing. BUT, he wouldn't necessarily have the gunsmiths experience or specific knowledge. That said, he has investigated machining an action from scratch and I believe he can do it. The biggest thing to note here is that I will definitely default to a real gunsmith if either a. Safety is a concern, or b. I risk throwing my investment in the trash.</p><p></p><p>I am assuming a few things. I'm assuming that I should mostly be able to fit the pieces together and expect a sub MOA rifle. Will I need to massage the stock? Fiddle with the bottom metal? Yes. Will I wish I'd done a few things differently, yes. </p><p></p><p>I'm ASSUMING i won't need a gunsmith to have a functional rifle though. That's essentially the narrative these manufacturers are pushing. Will I be surprised if I do need a gunsmith to get to sub-moa? No.</p><p></p><p>6. I'm well aware of the limits that twist rates and SAAMI impose, this is compounded by the long for caliber bullets of copper projectile's. Ive chosen faster than factory twist rates, and intend on sticking to mid weight bullets, ideally keeping a handle on my COAL.</p><p></p><p>7. I've handled McMillan, h&s, manners and bell and Carlson. I chose the stock without having handled one. They get good reviews. I liked the look so I went with it. I really wanted the new manners lrh, but the lead time is crazy, and I'm HOPING to have this rifle as an option come hunting season. I had it inlet in M24 as I felt that afforded the most options for future barrels. My cf barrels are coming in heavy Palma, which I believe will fit. <strong>I'm contemplating Changing the contour of the stock, as it has not entered production yet. I would LOVE opinions on this. </strong>Not outrageously concerned with slightly excessive gap or loose fitment here...as long as it mostly fits without excessive work to maintain free float.</p><p></p><p>8. I want a lighter rifle, 9lbs ish, that is fairly well mannered. That's touchy when we talk about noslers calibers I know. Longer range 300-500 yard shots with <em>absolute confidence</em>, is a milestone goal. I realize this is only partially accomplished by the rifle build. I successfully took a savage 12 lrp (for sale btw) to 1000 meters on loads I personally developed/reloaded. Granted I was shooting about 3 to 4 moa if I remember the math correctly. But I could hit a 4' x 4' steel plate with relative predictability. Beating those numbers with this rifle is another goal. I'd like to think that inside 2 years this rifle could get me to 1500 meters maybe? But I won't be dragging a kestrel, lab radar, and the whole nine yards into the timber. I'd expect a load that's max point blank range out to 350-400 yards or so.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Man this was a long post, but holy cow I appreciate the fact that your questions made me think about my goals to a higher degree. The parts above have already been purchased as noted. I order my action Friday...do you think, from what you've read, I can accomplish my goals as stated? Where am I going to **** the bed?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="StumpyJohnson, post: 2461911, member: 122458"] First, there is so much fantastic in your post that I want to thank you for taking the time to learn me a bit. Truly, thank you. Now I'll try to answer these questions as much for myself as to you. 1. I hope to shoot some deer, a pig, maybe an elk, but quite a bit of steel too. I would like to take game, but I want to make sure I'm prepared for the aftermath of the kill before attempting it. Honor the animal whose life I took. At the end of the day I like shooting. 2. I've heard there is magic in a 6.5 caliber bullet in the 140grn weight. That said I'll shoot non-lead. So, I'd like to target 125ish grn for the 26 nosler for everything but elk. If I can get consistent accuracy at 3200 - 3300 fps I'll be happy. For the 28 I'd be looking at the 150grn mark at 3000-3200 fps to start. My nosler m48 liberty plays well in that range And I have plenty of components. BUT a 160 to 168 grn pill would be great to explore. Overall I'll start with the 26 to build out the rifle and learn. Moving into the 28 as I progress. 3. I'm thinking my build will be in the the 8 to 12 pound range. I have the stated weights of the components mostly compiled, and I will update the build log section to project the weights in various configurations as soon as work gives me a moment to breath. I've order the stock with qd cups fore and rear on the left side for sling carriage. I'd like a slightly front heavy balance, balance point at a hands width forward of the trigger guard. 4. I do well with an LOP in the 13.5 to 14.5 range. I prefer slightly shorter, but I'm pretty lanky and long limbed. I shoot best with my elbows close to body, bringing weight to my core when standing. I also wear glasses so some distance between me and the scope is preferred. Prone or otherwise positioned I like to cuddle and drape myself over the rifle. I often find I need to raise the comb of the stock with a cheek piece or adjustable comb. 5. I'm understating my mechanical ability here a bit. I've inlet a wood stock from a blank and bedded a Mauser action with enough success that I'm not ashamed of the result. That said one of my best friends is an extremely accomplished machinist, he can accomplish any gunsmithing to a mechanical drawing. BUT, he wouldn't necessarily have the gunsmiths experience or specific knowledge. That said, he has investigated machining an action from scratch and I believe he can do it. The biggest thing to note here is that I will definitely default to a real gunsmith if either a. Safety is a concern, or b. I risk throwing my investment in the trash. I am assuming a few things. I'm assuming that I should mostly be able to fit the pieces together and expect a sub MOA rifle. Will I need to massage the stock? Fiddle with the bottom metal? Yes. Will I wish I'd done a few things differently, yes. I'm ASSUMING i won't need a gunsmith to have a functional rifle though. That's essentially the narrative these manufacturers are pushing. Will I be surprised if I do need a gunsmith to get to sub-moa? No. 6. I'm well aware of the limits that twist rates and SAAMI impose, this is compounded by the long for caliber bullets of copper projectile's. Ive chosen faster than factory twist rates, and intend on sticking to mid weight bullets, ideally keeping a handle on my COAL. 7. I've handled McMillan, h&s, manners and bell and Carlson. I chose the stock without having handled one. They get good reviews. I liked the look so I went with it. I really wanted the new manners lrh, but the lead time is crazy, and I'm HOPING to have this rifle as an option come hunting season. I had it inlet in M24 as I felt that afforded the most options for future barrels. My cf barrels are coming in heavy Palma, which I believe will fit. [B]I'm contemplating Changing the contour of the stock, as it has not entered production yet. I would LOVE opinions on this. [/B]Not outrageously concerned with slightly excessive gap or loose fitment here...as long as it mostly fits without excessive work to maintain free float. 8. I want a lighter rifle, 9lbs ish, that is fairly well mannered. That's touchy when we talk about noslers calibers I know. Longer range 300-500 yard shots with [I]absolute confidence[/I], is a milestone goal. I realize this is only partially accomplished by the rifle build. I successfully took a savage 12 lrp (for sale btw) to 1000 meters on loads I personally developed/reloaded. Granted I was shooting about 3 to 4 moa if I remember the math correctly. But I could hit a 4' x 4' steel plate with relative predictability. Beating those numbers with this rifle is another goal. I'd like to think that inside 2 years this rifle could get me to 1500 meters maybe? But I won't be dragging a kestrel, lab radar, and the whole nine yards into the timber. I'd expect a load that's max point blank range out to 350-400 yards or so. Man this was a long post, but holy cow I appreciate the fact that your questions made me think about my goals to a higher degree. The parts above have already been purchased as noted. I order my action Friday...do you think, from what you've read, I can accomplish my goals as stated? Where am I going to **** the bed? [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
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