internal threading/boring bar

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by lazylabs, May 20, 2010.

  1. lazylabs

    lazylabs Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone recommend a internal threading/boring bar for blueprinting actions and smaller internal threading? I am tired of grinding and want a single point insert bar.

    thanks
     
  2. DCGS

    DCGS <strong>Official LRH SPONSOR</strong>

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    Go to Grizzley's web site. They have several with inserts available
     

  3. lazylabs

    lazylabs Well-Known Member

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    I hate to just pick a random holder/insert type. I am not sure which ones will work well at feeds/speeds that I can do manually. I was hoping some of the other guys here could tell me exact model numbers they have had good luck with.

    Thanks
     
  4. GNERGY

    GNERGY Guest

  5. Kenny Reed

    Kenny Reed Member

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    Kennametals makes every type tool holder , boring bar , threading tool you can think of . They also have good tech. support , let them know what you want to do and what you have to work with and they will set you up. Sorry I cant be of more help but all my work is now done on a HAAS CNC.
     
  6. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    Valenite and Sandvic both make good ones. They're setup for inserts. Work best with Alorus or Darius tool blocks. If they offer it in solid carbide it will be better.
    gary
     
  7. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

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    I'm giving tooling from A.R. Warner Co a try, they have the inserts in HSS and carbide. I just can't get the finish on my threads with the carbide, I can get decent threads if they are course and I can turn up the speed but finer threads on smaller stock just doesn't come out the way I want. I'm sure there are other issues but the advice I've been given is more speed or go HSS. Arthur R Warner Co Specialists in High Speed Steel Kits
     
  8. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    With tooling you get exactly what you pay for.

    Grizzly certainly has it's place for certain things. IMHO tooling for blueprinting an action isn't it.

    Sandvik is what I've had the best luck with. Get a solid carbide insert boring bar and cry once.

    Rigidity is everything.

    Good luck

    C
     
  9. lazylabs

    lazylabs Well-Known Member

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    What size would you get for action threading? is .500 rigid enough?
     
  10. Kenny Reed

    Kenny Reed Member

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    If you are getting a rough thread with carbide there could be one of 100 reasons , but the first thing to look at is , coolant , are you getting any , next is everything tight to stop vibration , and then , depending on stock dia. and distance from the chuck you may need a steady rest . If you are already doing all the above you may just be getting some of the same SHITTY material we have been getting , we make a lot of threaded studs in the 2-4" dia range at work for machinery, you take a pc of 2" stock thread one end slick , flip it and turn the other end down to 1.125" and thread it , looks like a torch cut , it even looks rough where its turned down before threading. CHINA SCRAP or something, or you could be trying to take to much stock per cut , you cant make threads in two passes.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2011
  11. NesikaChad

    NesikaChad Well-Known Member

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    As a general rule, use the largest tool you can cram in the hole that will allow you to do the job. Just make sure you have room for chip evacuation.

    Tool rigidity can never be understated.

    Good luck.

    C
     
  12. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

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    a long time ago Warner Swasey used to sell a line of boring bars that were dead soft, and made of some kind of anti vibration alloy. You couldn't make them chatter! But alas they haven't made them in eons. But you see them used every once in awhile. I'm with Chad on the Sandvic stuff, but for serious stuff that's known to make strange music; I prefer Valenite. Used to hard turn a lot of steel, and this was the goto source for me. Also just because your using a carbide insert dosn't mean you got the right grade insert. And just as much as there are many grades of inserts, there's also other stuff out there. Vasco Supreme or Rex 95 would be great for hard turning a thread (I guess you can still buy it).

    With the boring bar setup; you should try to use the minimum amount of bar extention, and make sure the cutting face of the insert is properly aligned (make sure the bar is parallel to the spindle bore as well as centered up right.) Carbide is not as forgiving as high speed steel is, and you maybe seeing a clearence issue. Of course you could try tthe age old coffee can trick<g>!!
    gary