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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Interesting article about annealing
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<blockquote data-quote="eshorebwhntr" data-source="post: 1330785" data-attributes="member: 17112"><p>That was definitely a cool article. Thanks for posting the link.</p><p></p><p>I started annealing a few years back mainly to eliminate shoulder cracking after several firings on harder brass brands like Win & RP. Especially for cartridges like 280 AI and a 30 Hart (300 WBY AI). Norma or Nosler I've never had an issue. I've also never felt the need or seen a noticeable result in accuracy from annealing (or lack thereof). That is to say I've never annealed brass, shot it through X-firings, saw accuracy degrade, and then restored that accuracy by annealing. Just my experience. I've also never consistently monitored my velocities over a good chronograph so that is something to consider in the future.</p><p></p><p>I've also noticed that if I don't do some sort of dry neck lube or dry tumbling after annealing that the first rounds I load are noticeably harder to seat a bullet because of some sort of scale that builds up on the inside of the neck. Usually I just throw them in the tumbler for an hour or so and the small amount of media dust on them acts as a dry lube and they feel normal when seating again.</p><p></p><p>I took a few classes on metallurgy in college but haven't really used it. At some point last year I got in a small back-and-forth with a member on here when he stated "if your primer pockets start to get loose just heat them with a torch and dunk them in water. They'll harden back up". I politely stated that it was my understanding that you can't heat/quench brass like carbon steel that brass has to be work hardened and let it go at that. He disagreed with me but after reading this article it's nice to know I haven't completely lost it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="eshorebwhntr, post: 1330785, member: 17112"] That was definitely a cool article. Thanks for posting the link. I started annealing a few years back mainly to eliminate shoulder cracking after several firings on harder brass brands like Win & RP. Especially for cartridges like 280 AI and a 30 Hart (300 WBY AI). Norma or Nosler I've never had an issue. I've also never felt the need or seen a noticeable result in accuracy from annealing (or lack thereof). That is to say I've never annealed brass, shot it through X-firings, saw accuracy degrade, and then restored that accuracy by annealing. Just my experience. I've also never consistently monitored my velocities over a good chronograph so that is something to consider in the future. I've also noticed that if I don't do some sort of dry neck lube or dry tumbling after annealing that the first rounds I load are noticeably harder to seat a bullet because of some sort of scale that builds up on the inside of the neck. Usually I just throw them in the tumbler for an hour or so and the small amount of media dust on them acts as a dry lube and they feel normal when seating again. I took a few classes on metallurgy in college but haven't really used it. At some point last year I got in a small back-and-forth with a member on here when he stated "if your primer pockets start to get loose just heat them with a torch and dunk them in water. They'll harden back up". I politely stated that it was my understanding that you can't heat/quench brass like carbon steel that brass has to be work hardened and let it go at that. He disagreed with me but after reading this article it's nice to know I haven't completely lost it. [/QUOTE]
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Interesting article about annealing
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