Ideas for adding weight to a HS stock?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by KDB, Jul 15, 2009.

  1. KDB

    KDB Well-Known Member

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    Ok, this may sound like (or actually be) a stupid question, but I want to add some wieght to my HS stock. The rifle is barrel heavy and sicks like a mule and some extra mass would help.

    I have noticed that my HS stocks seem to be hollow in the rear which got me thinking about cutting off the butt pad and trying to add some lead to it via a hole that I would drill into the base of the stock.

    My question is how would the stock be affected by the molten lead? Would it melt, soften or warp the stock before it cools and solidifies? Any other practical ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    You could kill two birds with one stone by installing one or two recoil reducers.

    Edwards Recoil Reducers           The First and Still The Best

    A little more spendy than adding lead, but it might be worth the benefit of less recoil.

    There are a number of them one the market. Do a google, or maybe one of the smiths will chime in with an opinion.

    -MR
     

  3. cinch

    cinch Well-Known Member

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    First, I have NOT tried this yet, but I've heard you can mix lead shot in epoxy and put it in the stock under the pad. Sounds simple enough. I don't know if there are any tricks to this.
     
  4. KDB

    KDB Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the ideas. Do the Edwards reducers really work? How much do they offset felt recoil.

    I am shooting a 300 RUM and the rifle combo weighs about 16lbs. I am not flinchy to recoil but shooting 190's at mid 3400's, it kicks pretty hard and the balance is off because the 28 inch heavy varmint krieger tube makes it want to tip of the front rest. All reason why I wanted to add some wieght to the rear.
     
  5. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    It is not a stupid question.

    Adding weight to a HS stock can be a lot of trouble if done wrong.

    Lead is not the answer because it would take a lot to fill the void and end up weighing to
    much and the ballance would be off if you didn't fill it all the way up.

    And having to cut the recoil pad off can be problematic so what I have done in the past is
    just replace the stock with a laminated one and save the HS for a lighter build.

    "OR" drill a 1/4 inch hole through the center of the recoil pad into the void and mix up some
    epoxy/devcon (Not the gel type) and pour some in with the fore end faceing down until you
    get the desired weight. You may have to fill the entire void but at least you can place some
    in and let it cure and if it is not enough then add some more,

    It is not easy to poor threw the 1/4 inch hole but it can be done. and when your through you
    will only have a small hole in the recoil pad that can be filled with a rubber plug if it bothers
    you.

    You can use 2 holes and force the devcon through one and vent through the other.

    Be sure and tape anything that you don't want the epoxy to get on.

    This process adds the right amount of weight and dampens the hollow sound of the HS and
    other composites with hollow butt stocks.

    J E CUSTOM
     
  6. novaman64

    novaman64 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if its different or not, but my HS stock that was on a Remmy was glued on, just throw it in the freezer and grab the pad with a pair of channel locks and it comes right off. My "recoil pad" was a piece of rubber a little over 1/4" thick. Put on a LimbSaver instead... But once you get that recoil pad off there is a huge cavity you have access too , no need to drill holes....
     
  7. KDB

    KDB Well-Known Member

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    Some really good ideas...Thanks!

    I wonder if I could use a solid steel slug (bar stock), cut to the desired weight, then epoxy it into the hollow void? That way I can control the wieght and balance of the butt stock by the placement of the slug in relation to the voided area.

    Novaman64: How big is the void in your stock?

    Does anyone see any potential issues with this idea?

    Keep em comming!
     
  8. novaman64

    novaman64 Well-Known Member

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    prolyl about 2.5 inches tall and near an inch wide. Pretty deep....
     
  9. MontanaRifleman

    MontanaRifleman Well-Known Member

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    I have never used a reducer, but if I had a more powerful dedicated bench shooter I would definitely consider putting in at least one and maybe two and exchanging the factory pad for a limbsaver in the process. It would make shooting a whole lot more enjoyable.

    There are few different makes, so if you're considering one, check around and get some feedback from guys that use them.

    -MR
     
  10. LongBomber

    LongBomber Well-Known Member

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    Did you ever think of useing mono silicone caulking? I didn't do it to a HS stock but I have done it on several factory hollow stocks, it stays mushy and eats some recoil and vibration as well. It also deadens the sound of a hollow stock very well. I filled the cavity on the back of the stock on 3 of my rifles, that also had heavier barrels installed and had the same ballance problem. If thats not enough weight you could drop in some small lead weights till you get it right. No problem sith the mono eating the synthetic stock, just fill her up and put the recoil pad back on.
     
  11. Dskiper

    Dskiper Well-Known Member

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    KDB, If there is space behind the pad,add weight till your satisfied(leadshot,sinkers). Take them out and vac-pak in plastic.Put back in stock and seal them into the stock void with silcone calk.Allow to dry and replace pad. If you use an epoxy it will be hell to remove. Dskiper
     
  12. vmthtr

    vmthtr Member

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    I used lead shot mixed with silocone gasket material. Hardens and keeps the lead in place, alos easier than solid to remove if you want.

    Mike
     
  13. sapper299

    sapper299 Member

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    Did this with my stock. Cut off the recoil pad with a band saw- glue would not let go when frozen. Added # shot until I got the right weight. Just cover with duct tape as you adjust the weight. When I got to where I wanted it, I mixed the shot into spray foam and let it expand to fill the hole. Trimmed the foam then Accra-glassed the recoil pad back on.
     
  14. nevada

    nevada Member

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    epoxy would be permanent..
    or atleast very hard to remove.

    just recently did the same. used clear silicone, and some #9 birdshot. worked very good. was able to add 1 -1.5# to my cheap synthetic stock...