Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 816957" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>it's an absolute no no to let a piece of brass air cool after annealing. The heat will transfer on towards the base and soften the part you don't want to touch. Reason I said cold water was to shock the brass and stopping the heat transfer. Everybody has their own personal way to do this process, but I prefer to keep the heat in the necks and about two thirds of the shoulder. The heat will transfer very fast, and by the time it's quenched the anneal process hould be slightly into the first .150" of the case body itself or maybe even a little less if I work fast enough.</p><p> </p><p>I don't use a torch, because it's harder to get a very even heat without heating the entire case body. I feel that if the brass is softer in some areas it will effect the performance of the case. I use the burner on an electric range with a plate that has down pins pressed in it. Once the plate gets hot enough I simply slip the cases over the down pins and watch a welder's temp stick line. After a few cases you start to build up a rythem, and about every six or eight seconds your dropping a case in cold water. I use a 450 degree stick, but have used 500 degree sticks as well. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 816957, member: 25383"] it's an absolute no no to let a piece of brass air cool after annealing. The heat will transfer on towards the base and soften the part you don't want to touch. Reason I said cold water was to shock the brass and stopping the heat transfer. Everybody has their own personal way to do this process, but I prefer to keep the heat in the necks and about two thirds of the shoulder. The heat will transfer very fast, and by the time it's quenched the anneal process hould be slightly into the first .150" of the case body itself or maybe even a little less if I work fast enough. I don't use a torch, because it's harder to get a very even heat without heating the entire case body. I feel that if the brass is softer in some areas it will effect the performance of the case. I use the burner on an electric range with a plate that has down pins pressed in it. Once the plate gets hot enough I simply slip the cases over the down pins and watch a welder's temp stick line. After a few cases you start to build up a rythem, and about every six or eight seconds your dropping a case in cold water. I use a 450 degree stick, but have used 500 degree sticks as well. gary [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
I have a Reloading problem I need help to solve.
Top