How to build a LR gun?

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by Guest, Oct 5, 2001.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hi,
    Well, it's getting to be that time of year where I want to build a new gun that will be my first.
    Let me tell you what I'm thinking, and then you can tell me where I'm all wet.
    First, let me say that I work for a living and don't have a barrel of money to throw at the gun.
    OK, Savage makes two or three models in .300 Ultra Mag. (I like Savages). This would give me an action, bolt face, and magazine box all in the right size for this round.
    The next thing would be a new barrel. I'm thinking that I need one at least 30" (how much do I need?). I also think it should have a 1-10" twist since I'm looking at shooting 180 to 220 grain, and maybe heavier bullets.
    I think that I'll put it in a Varminter style stock. I have a spare one from a 112 BVSS. Would it be possible to use a barrel block with this setup? (and, where do I get one?)
    I want this to weigh 15++ lbs, more like 25.
    The purpose of this is to hunt at 800 to 1000 yards, with enough accuracy and retained energy, and still be somewhat portable.

    Please give me your opinions, and TIA.
    C'ya. Jeep.
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Hi, again.
    Some additional info.
    I want the .300 RUM because I can get dies for it. And, I have 4 other 30 cal. rifles.
    I also have a Ultimate Sniper stock for a savage long action I can use.
    Who should I contact for a barrel?
    I have a local gunsmith, or should I farm it?
    I need your help here, guys.
    Thanks, again.
    C'ya. Jeep.

    PS. don't recomend a Sendero, I have LOUSY luck with Remingtons (don't ask). JP.
     

  3. Darryl Cassel

    Darryl Cassel Well-Known Member

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    Looks like your on your way.

    I would have the local smith put a new 30" Barrel on your outfit.
    Hart, Lilja, Shilen, Kreiger are all good barrels and they are made in the 30" length that I would want if I were doing what you are.
    I also would have the barrel tapored to about .950" diameter at the muzzle to reduce some of the weight. A muzzle brake might be nice also. You will appreciate it if you go on up to 240 Gr bullets. 220s are bad enough in a fairly light rifle.

    It sounds like you have everything except the scope (unless I missed that) which I would go with a Leupold LR in the 8 1/2X to 25X and the side wheel focus.

    Anyway, your on your way and the next thing is ordering a barrel.

    The 30 Cal is the way I would go in the range you want to shoot.

    Good Luck and Good Shooting.
    DC
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Thanks, Darryl.
    It's kind of nice to think that I have a clue.
    As far as glass goes, I have a Simmons 8-32X44 with japanese lenses. It's got fine hairs, a target dot and target knobs. I can almost read a street sign with 2" letters at 800 yds. It's just going to have to do for now.
    Is 30" long enough? I've noticed that .338's are using 37" tubes. I'm only going to be able to buy one. I've noticed that getting a longer one isn't as expensive as getting another one.
    What about the barrel block idea?

    Thanks, again.
    C'ya, Jeep.
     
  5. Darryl Cassel

    Darryl Cassel Well-Known Member

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    I don't believe you will have enough "Meat" in the stock to put a barrel block in.
    A Macmillen Tooley design stock you would but the wait and cost would add to your project.

    If the bedding job is correct you can get by without a barrel block with a 30" barrel that has a tapor to .900 to .950"

    You will do just fine with a 30" barrel and the 300 RUM.
    Later
    DC

    [ 10-05-2001: Message edited by: Darryl Cassel ]
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    DC, thanks for the quick reply.
    I think that I need to give more thought to how I want the stock constructed.
    I'm not above average at 5'9" and 180lbs, so, the weight is intended to keep this thing from kicking my butt. Got any other ideas that I'm missing?

    Thanks, again.
    C'ya, Jeep.
     
  7. Boyd Heaton

    Boyd Heaton Well-Known Member

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    [ 03-16-2004: Message edited by: Boyd Heaton ]
     
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Thanks, all.
    Boyd, LOL!
    Please keep the info coming.

    C'ya, Jeep.
     
  9. Moose Fever

    Moose Fever New Member

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    Hi, I was thinking of the same thing, building a custom rifle or order it but not sure about the barrel thickness and length. Which one will give more accurate at long range? Contour #5,6 or 7, OR increase the barrel length, from 26" to 28"? I was hoping that the rifle will weigh under 10-12lbs. I'll use it for hunting, and maybe participate some local benchrest competition. The caliber would be 300RUM. Any suggestions? Thank you.
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

    And...............
    I have another question.
    My friend and I were crunching numbers last night, and determined that a 30 cal. 240MK at 3000 FPS is capable of delivering over 1400 FPE at 1500 yards.
    so, do I want a 1 in 10, or a 1 in 9" twist for this rifle?

    Thanks, again.
    C'ya. JP.
     
  11. Gary Rihn

    Gary Rihn Well-Known Member

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    JP-

    Sounds like a nice project you have going there, with one exception.

    25 pounds? In a portable hunting rifle? I'd rethink that part. I too like heavy rifles, and have been known to Dremel out & fill the entire fore-end with lead, but only on range/tactical type rifles. My favorite 308 is done that way, but I wouldn't want to think about carrying it very far.

    Other than that, sounds like you should be on your way to a nice rig.
     
  12. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I ordered the rifle yesterday.
    What I ordered was a Savage 116 BSS in .300 RUM. This gun has a laminated stock, with stainless action and a 26" barrel. The savage site says that this weighs 7.75 lbs.I'm assuming that the barrel is in a medium sporter contour to make it that light in weight.
    Does anyone have any idea how much weight will be added by going to a 7, 8, or 9 contour barrel that's 30" long? I'm thinking it would be about 5 lbs.

    Thanks.
    C'ya. JP.
     
  13. Gary Rihn

    Gary Rihn Well-Known Member

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    JP-

    My info on Douglas barrels gives the following info...

    #4 contour (probably about what's on it now), 3 1/2#

    #7 contour, 6 1/4#

    Basic (straight 1.18" tube), 10#

    The #4-7 info is for a 26" tube, the basic is for 27 1/2". You can get a fair idea from this. Going to a 30" tube will pick you up a bit more.
     
  14. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

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    What would you all think of a fluted .900-.950" barrel at 36" without a barrel block. A little longer, about the same weight and just as stiff?

    Would you be inclined to say the added length would still increase leverage on the action in recoil over a shorter possibly even heavyer barrel, thus needing the block? Zero experiance speaking here, just pickin the brains that do.