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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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<blockquote data-quote="NesikaChad" data-source="post: 395969" data-attributes="member: 7449"><p>Here's the tool installed in my reamer holder in preparation of truing things up. The plumb weight is just to ensure the tool follows the bottom of the bore. Nothing here actually rotates, it just bobs up and down as the barrel flops around. Once the bore is concentric it'll quit moving.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0040.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Now I dial back the hydraulic pressure being exerted on the chuck so that I can move things around without stripping the heads of the allen set screws.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0044.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Barrel is all trued up now after some fiddling with the set screws and careful use of a craftsman deadblow mallet. A few taps makes pretty quick work of all this.</p><p></p><p>This particular action is new for me so it requires I write a new program for the lathe. I start with a simple CAD model of the tennon that I use to write a program with. This is where the "cheat sheet" comes in handy as all my dimensions are recorded. I write all my lathe code longhand so the model is just a convenient visual to pull dimensions from. With actions that I've used before I apply the same numbers from my "cheat sheet" and just edit values in a master program for that particular brand/type of receiver. Much easier/quicker that way.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0032.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0033.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Once done I'll load the program into the machine's control via the RS232 cable.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0052.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NesikaChad, post: 395969, member: 7449"] Here's the tool installed in my reamer holder in preparation of truing things up. The plumb weight is just to ensure the tool follows the bottom of the bore. Nothing here actually rotates, it just bobs up and down as the barrel flops around. Once the bore is concentric it'll quit moving. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0040.jpg[/IMG] Now I dial back the hydraulic pressure being exerted on the chuck so that I can move things around without stripping the heads of the allen set screws. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0044.jpg[/IMG] Barrel is all trued up now after some fiddling with the set screws and careful use of a craftsman deadblow mallet. A few taps makes pretty quick work of all this. This particular action is new for me so it requires I write a new program for the lathe. I start with a simple CAD model of the tennon that I use to write a program with. This is where the "cheat sheet" comes in handy as all my dimensions are recorded. I write all my lathe code longhand so the model is just a convenient visual to pull dimensions from. With actions that I've used before I apply the same numbers from my "cheat sheet" and just edit values in a master program for that particular brand/type of receiver. Much easier/quicker that way. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0032.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0033.jpg[/IMG] Once done I'll load the program into the machine's control via the RS232 cable. [IMG]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/nesikachad/barrel%20work/DSC_0052.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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How I Barrel A Precision Custom Rifle - Long Rifles, LLC
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