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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
How do you hold the chamber reamer?
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<blockquote data-quote="shortgrass" data-source="post: 819283" data-attributes="member: 24284"><p>If the splindle bore of your lathe is too small in diameter for a barrel to pass through, or the head stock is tool long, you have no choice but to work with a steady rest. I <strong><em>would not</em> </strong>fix the reamer in a solid holder, like a collet chuck. I <strong><em>would not</em></strong> use the reamer (and its pilot) for "centering" a barrel that's extended from the chuck, it was not designed for such a task. I hope your steady rest has rollers instead of brass tips, brass will near down before you finish and it generates heat, besides. When using a steady with rollers, "dial" in the bore the same as you'd 'dial in' if using a chuck (yes,, 3 jaw, independent chucks were made in the past. they're a PIA to center, but, it can be done). Make sure, when "dialed in", that the barrel is supported by the steady and not floating. Do the turning, threading, and chambering from there using a <em>quality</em> floating holder (or a "pusher", like the Bald Eagle, if thats your choice. I prefer the floating holder). Letting the barrel "float", as suggested on the "other" forum will insure a chamber with over sized diameters, possible reamer damage and maybe 'chatter'(because the work is not secure). Be sure to 'skim cut' the shank concentric to the bore before placing the steady on the shank. Same for the muzzle end that will be "dialed in" in the 4 jaw chuck. Not time efficent, at all. Get some professional, <em>in person </em>instruction!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shortgrass, post: 819283, member: 24284"] If the splindle bore of your lathe is too small in diameter for a barrel to pass through, or the head stock is tool long, you have no choice but to work with a steady rest. I [B][I]would not[/I] [/B]fix the reamer in a solid holder, like a collet chuck. I [B][I]would not[/I][/B] use the reamer (and its pilot) for "centering" a barrel that's extended from the chuck, it was not designed for such a task. I hope your steady rest has rollers instead of brass tips, brass will near down before you finish and it generates heat, besides. When using a steady with rollers, "dial" in the bore the same as you'd 'dial in' if using a chuck (yes,, 3 jaw, independent chucks were made in the past. they're a PIA to center, but, it can be done). Make sure, when "dialed in", that the barrel is supported by the steady and not floating. Do the turning, threading, and chambering from there using a [I]quality[/I] floating holder (or a "pusher", like the Bald Eagle, if thats your choice. I prefer the floating holder). Letting the barrel "float", as suggested on the "other" forum will insure a chamber with over sized diameters, possible reamer damage and maybe 'chatter'(because the work is not secure). Be sure to 'skim cut' the shank concentric to the bore before placing the steady on the shank. Same for the muzzle end that will be "dialed in" in the 4 jaw chuck. Not time efficent, at all. Get some professional, [I]in person [/I]instruction! [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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How do you hold the chamber reamer?
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