Hornady Custom Grade "New Dimension" 2 Die Set? Good?

Troutslayer2

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May 28, 2010
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Are these dies good? If it matters, I am reloading .280 AI, and just ordered a rifle so I have some time to accumulate supplies. The only thing about them that I'm not sure about is that the seating die applies a roll crimp. Do I want that? I don't reload all that much, but I'm trying to get more precise. Are these the dies that I'm going to want to do that with or should I be looking towards a competition seater and something else for resizing??? Thanks.
 
I had a set but didn't care for them, specifically for the 280 AI. The complaint was that the bullet seating die is basically set for 284 caliber, not a specific casing, ie: its the same seating die for 7-08, 7x57, 280 rem, 7mag, ect. The problem I had, (An RCBS press) was that the seating die only screwed about 1 1/2 threads into my press so when I seated bullets I had a major run-out issue since it was actually wobbling my die a bit. I bought a ring set that screwed into the press and then you screw the die into the ring, the only issue was it was not settable so each and every time you took out the die, you had to re-set your initial setting. Other than that, they were fine. I ended up shelving the Hornady's and bought a set of Redding Dies and they have been great. I did have to have my smith lathe a little off the bottom of the seating die to bump my shoulders back enough. Hope that helped..........P.S. you can set them up so they do not apply a crimp on your casing.
 
" Are these the dies that I'm going to want to do that with or should I be looking towards a competition seater and something else for resizing??? "

Not to pee on your parade but as a beginner it really won't make a bit of difference which dies you start with. Ammo is made inside the dies and inside they generally vary as much between dies of the same brand as between brands. They are all quite good or they wouldn't survive in the market.

You have much learning before you attain the skills to even get best performance from conventional dies, never mind more costly "competition" dies. You can't get accuracy from a check book, it takes time and learning that simply can't be bought. AFTER you gain skill you won't need to ask anyone what to get, you will know what you want to better fit your needs.



"... lathe a little off the bottom of the seating die to bump my shoulders back enough"

I am totally puzzled by this comment.
 
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So thats what I have been doing wrong, here all this time I was bumping the shoulder back with my Sizer Die.
 
Everyone has their preferences for dies. For my 280AI I use

Lee Collet Neck Sizer Lee Collet 2-Die Neck Sizer Set 280 Remington, 7mm Express - MidwayUSA . A neck sizer that produces very straight necks with little runout and no lube in the neck necessary. You get the seater with it which is useable until you decide to front the cash for a better seater.

Redding Body Die Redding Body Die 280 Remington Ackley Improved 40-Degree Shoulder - MidwayUSA . When you develop a crush fit on the 3rd or 4th reloading it will push the shoulder back and resize the case body.


That will set you up for only $55.00 and will be all you need until you can fork out the cash for a competition seater Redding Competition Seater Die 280 Remington Ackley Improved 40-Degree Shoulder - MidwayUSA
 
troutslayer2,
That's pretty much the only die I buy these days. I do not load for the 280AI, but do for a dozen others, all with Hornady CGND Dies and my accuracy runs sub 1/2" majority of the time. JohnnyK.
 
I have a set in 300wby . after I seated a nosler balistic tip 180grain and lowered the round out out of the die it would pull the bullet back out . the bullet was stuck in the seating stem . I did some research on this and found Hornady makes a special seater stem for the A-max style bullets , that's probably what I needed . I had already ordered a set of redding dies so I don't know if the A-max seater stem would have corrected this problem or not . that's my only experience with Hornady dies . Jim
 
Yep bumping back with the seating die, that's how its done right........ Then you can load the bullet in backwards and the boat tail helps cut down on drag from the front with a nice gradual Ogive going backwards. Really streamlines things. No seriously, I made a typo sorry guys, it was the sizing die that had to be trimmed.....Oops
 
I have tried them and don't care for them either.I got a set of Hornady custom dies with my 338 Lapua Improved from the smith that built it but there is nothing custom about it.
I would not recommend them, nor will I ever buy another.
I would follow" WOODS" advice . You will be much better off.
 
one other thing about the Hornady dies that's a problem for me . I let the expander rod a little loose in the sizer die so it can float . my idea is if the expander ball can float it might not pull the case neck crooked . I don't know if this is true or not , I don't check run out . but on the hornady die you must keep the lock nut tight or the expanding rod slips through the threads of the collet style lock nut . hence their name " zip spindle " . Jim
 
Ditto on the "zip" spindle. If it zips in it can zip out just as easy. Had to tighten the nut VERY tight to get it to stay. I feel I can get good reloads (runout, seating etc) with these dies, but it does seem to take A LOT more work. This can probably be said of any production grade die set though. Gotta love the price. These dies work ok for friends that want reloads. I'll leave the handloads to custom dies.

Anybody ever attempt the "boat tail wad cutter"? If so please describe in detail (injuries included).
 
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