Homemade Zerostops

[sp6x6]

That is what I DID,washer on mark 4. I did test with just old plastic butter dish lid, but the allen is a better deal, washer has to be exact, and it is hard to get exact shim thickness.

 

[Bravo 4]

Gotta ask, is there any warranty issues with a homemade "upgrade" with these Leupolds? I like the ideas you guys are sharing and if there isn't an issue then I would consider doing it myself. Maybe even asking my Commander if I can alter our issued Leupolds.

 

[paphil]

Don't know. Mine came that way from kenton industries. One should always be VERY gentile when turning turrets at either end of their range because the threads are very fine and can easily be streched if forced.

 

[royinidaho]

Good idea, I just made a zero stop for my mark 4, I got lucky and found a washer that was just right after I pounded it and redrilled center for post. Guestion, my vari 3 does'nt seem to climb the post as you dial up? How would you zero stop that set up?

sp6x6,

How many pounds with what size of hammer.

I tried the ring around the bottom but couldn't get it to feel firm and was always a click or two off of zero one way or another.......

On my zeiss the ring will be better than a 1/16" thick.

 

[LRSickle]

I did what Paphil suggested at work. I'll post a pic when I get home. I have one concern, the setscrew is steel and the base that it seats against is brass. I think I'll make a set screw out of nylon so it doesn't gouge into the brass. Any thoughts?

 

[LRSickle]

That is what I DID,washer on mark 4. I did test with just old plastic butter dish lid, but the allen is a better deal, washer has to be exact, and it is hard to get exact shim thickness.

Which brings up another idea. I read what you said about using a washer and I thought "meh". But I can cut a washer off some brass round stock with a parting tool to any thickness I want. Maybe I'll fiddle with that idea on my other scopes. It will probably give a better feel when it bottoms out at zero. Hhhmmmmm.

 

[royinidaho]

Which brings up another idea. I read what you said about using a washer and I thought "meh". But I can cut a washer off some brass round stock with a parting tool to any thickness I want. Maybe I'll fiddle with that idea on my other scopes. It will probably give a better feel when it bottoms out at zero. Hhhmmmmm.

There ya go! My original attempt was sawing off a old unused aluminum camera tripod leg that happened to be the correct diameter. Then ground it to size on a belt sander then a diamond stone. Very difficult to get precisely parallel edged plus kind of hot on fingers.

If machined correctly, reamed, outside turned and reamed to close tolerances then cut to the precise thickness, I don't see a need for set screws, at least on my Ziess (don't know about the NXS).

Thus there should be no warranty issues.

LR, we'll let you take the lead on this one. I don't know if its cost effective but project like this are very satisfying.

 

[Tikkamike]

I really like your idea lr however heres a thought. there are micrometer type markings under your turret (leupolds with target turrets) with a verticle centerline that indicates where you are clicked to. if you just throw a zero stop (free moving sleeve) you are covering that up and could easily be off one click when dialing a long way could be a miss. thats why the one i have has the set screw. it has a line on it that you line up with the micrometer and tighten the set screws so you dont loose that reference point. so what if you put a mark on yours and found just the right sized O ring to fit under the sleeve to keep tension on it so it doesnt move around. and you dont have to worry ab out marring from a set screw... lightbulb
if you can address that i think you have quite possible the best option around!

 

[sp6x6]

Which brings up another idea. I read what you said about using a washer and I thought "meh". But I can cut a washer off some brass round stock with a parting tool to any thickness I want. Maybe I'll fiddle with that idea on my other scopes. It will probably give a better feel when it bottoms out at zero. Hhhmmmmm.

When I started I MEASURED on outside of turret to get a idea of shim size, for my zero back to bottom. I used a stainless washer as it was closest to size, hardware store had brass and nylon, if you had the room you could use washer and fine tune w/ allen. I could not tell what base was on mine, I think it was black, I skimmed my washer on belt sander and turret set screw has a small amount of verticule travel, I set turret at zero, applied a little down pressure and tightened set screw. I WILL use allen on future. BUT does anyone have any ideas on my vari 3, it does'nt climb like the mark 4?

 

[sp6x6]

I just pulled my turret cap and mine seats, if you would call it that, on a steel type washer/clip. So a allen would be no problem on mine, or use a washer as a contact for the allen head.My outside markings are all visable.

 

[LRSickle]

Here's the set screw I installed last night. I zeroed my scope and screwed the set screw down until it seated. It actually locked my turret from moving. Dang!

So now I'm thinking, like sp6X6 suggests, I'll make a brass shim/washer that's large enough diameter to rest on the top rim of my turret tower with a hole in it that will allow the brass part in the scope tower to go up and down freely. I'll get one close then with a little 600 wet sandpaper, keep taking them down until it stops my turret at zero. I'm hoping I can get the thickness close and then, like sp6X6 did, use the setscrew as a fine-tune adjustment. Thoughts?

I made these last night but all of them were too thick.

 

[LRSickle]

I really like your idea lr however heres a thought. there are micrometer type markings under your turret (leupolds with target turrets) with a verticle centerline that indicates where you are clicked to. if you just throw a zero stop (free moving sleeve) you are covering that up and could easily be off one click when dialing a long way could be a miss. thats why the one i have has the set screw. it has a line on it that you line up with the micrometer and tighten the set screws so you dont loose that reference point. so what if you put a mark on yours and found just the right sized O ring to fit under the sleeve to keep tension on it so it doesnt move around. and you dont have to worry ab out marring from a set screw... lightbulb
if you can address that i think you have quite possible the best option around!

This probably a better idea. At least it's less invasive to your scope. I'm sure any scope manufacture will frown upon what I did to my turret cap. I had already drilled and tapped my cap so now I'll finish it. I have a few more scopes to put zero stops on. I will try this way next. It seems like a more simple method too.

 

[royinidaho]

I'm lovin' this thread.

This is pretty much how I live my life.

Len, otta build a porch on his living room for all of the innovations that didn't work

 

[paphil]

I like the washer idea! Keep in mind that both the screw and the washer are just there to be able to carefully feel where bottom is. I have all of my stops set 1/8-1/4 turn below zero and very rarely turn the turret down till it hits "bottom". It is just there for when you do get confused and don't want to go back to a bore sight or short range target. Always be very gentile because what you have done is ,in effect, created a minature gear puller .