High Tech Specialties
- Thread starter 25 Otter
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Otter those stocks from brownells for about $200 are just the fiberglass blank out of the mold.
You will need a file, sandpaper, some acra glass gel, acetone, to file, fill , and prep the mold joints. You will have to instal a pad. Then you can add texture to the stock via the gel or the paint process.
They make a nice light stock and as long as the barrel contour is a #4 or less you should be good. Results will vary with your level of craftsmanship.
You will need a file, sandpaper, some acra glass gel, acetone, to file, fill , and prep the mold joints. You will have to instal a pad. Then you can add texture to the stock via the gel or the paint process.
They make a nice light stock and as long as the barrel contour is a #4 or less you should be good. Results will vary with your level of craftsmanship.
Clark
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- Oct 19, 2006
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- 772
Coyboy nailed it with few words.
Everyone else seems to glue on the recoil pad.
I cut the stock butt to length on the power miter saw. Then I glass and screw a wood plug in the butt. That way I can screw in the recoil pad instead of gluing it.
Everyone else seems to glue on the recoil pad.
I cut the stock butt to length on the power miter saw. Then I glass and screw a wood plug in the butt. That way I can screw in the recoil pad instead of gluing it.
That turned out very nice. I like it. I'm not concerned about finishing one myself. I've done similar things in the past. I am however concerned about the paint. Is there a secret to getting a nice durable finish on one in home?
after you have the stock ready, tape off the pad and the bedding. sand with 320-400 to rough up the shell a bit, wipe down with acetone let dry. Use gloves when handling from now on.
Hang on a wire and spray. Pick the best paint you can get, any 2 part paint that is mixed and sprayed via a gun will work best, a rattle can would work also but the key to rattle cans is it takes much longer for the paint to actually fully cure and get hard so let it dry for 2 or more weeks in a warm dry place. I used alumihyde on a barrel years ago and remember that it held up really well. Not sure but would guess it would work good on fiberglass.
Hang on a wire and spray. Pick the best paint you can get, any 2 part paint that is mixed and sprayed via a gun will work best, a rattle can would work also but the key to rattle cans is it takes much longer for the paint to actually fully cure and get hard so let it dry for 2 or more weeks in a warm dry place. I used alumihyde on a barrel years ago and remember that it held up really well. Not sure but would guess it would work good on fiberglass.
Cool 
. I might have to give one a try. I've always been kind of a fiddler of sorts. I decided to build a flintlock last winter. It turned out quite nice. I figure this can't be much worse,lol. The barrel I have ordered is a #4 Shilen heavy sporter. Do you think it will be adaptable to this stock?
here are some pics of the 58cal. Leman I built. Not really long range equipment though.
. I might have to give one a try. I've always been kind of a fiddler of sorts. I decided to build a flintlock last winter. It turned out quite nice. I figure this can't be much worse,lol. The barrel I have ordered is a #4 Shilen heavy sporter. Do you think it will be adaptable to this stock?here are some pics of the 58cal. Leman I built. Not really long range equipment though.
Yes a #4 will work. If the channel needs to be opened thru the fiberglass shell, remove some of the foam and bed the barrel channel to cover the foam interior again. Tape on the length of the barrel will give clearance after it is removed.
Here's a High Tech more adapted to LRH. Paint is just brown Krylon. The barrel is a #4 Shilen SM SS in 7mm RM, in Weatherby Vanguard. Due to bending under barrel weight on bipod support, the stock required an arrow shaft bedded into the fore end.
