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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Help with seating depth
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<blockquote data-quote="SBruce" data-source="post: 708303" data-attributes="member: 21068"><p>If you're seeing definitive riflling marks on the bullet, then I'd say that's .020 jam. But again it's relative, so you can call it whatever you want and use that as your baseline. From there, back off .015 and back off again another .015 and once more another .015.......shoot all 4 lengths and stick with what the gun likes after that.</p><p> </p><p>If you're using one of the fired case and real bullet methods, dont fully FL size the case. Just size enough to grip the bullet or use a neck size only die. Fully FL sizing will sometimes give a false measurement because the ejector plunger will push the case further into the chamber. Generally, a case that's been fired once works best. It shouldn't be tight and wont be loose either.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SBruce, post: 708303, member: 21068"] If you're seeing definitive riflling marks on the bullet, then I'd say that's .020 jam. But again it's relative, so you can call it whatever you want and use that as your baseline. From there, back off .015 and back off again another .015 and once more another .015.......shoot all 4 lengths and stick with what the gun likes after that. If you're using one of the fired case and real bullet methods, dont fully FL size the case. Just size enough to grip the bullet or use a neck size only die. Fully FL sizing will sometimes give a false measurement because the ejector plunger will push the case further into the chamber. Generally, a case that's been fired once works best. It shouldn't be tight and wont be loose either. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Help with seating depth
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