Help un-confuse me!

TheHardWay

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Joined
Mar 10, 2010
Messages
235
Location
Hesperus, CO
OK I am working with a 300WSM and have my load worked up. I entered everything into the LoadBase 3.0 program to get my bullet drops. I printed one version with the 'Linear' information that tells me that at 500 yards with a 200 yard zero, the bullet will drop 34.7" The other way I did it was in the MOA mode. At 500 yards, it is telling me that it will drop 6.6 MOA.

Now I realize that for all intensive purposes that a MOA can be assumed to be 1" at 100 yards, 2" @ 200 yards and so on.

Now this is where I am getting a little confused. The scope I have a Leupold Vari-XII 4-12 AO. It was made around 1997-1998, so it doesn't have the 1/4" clicks. It uses the smooth rotating elevation and windage adjustments. It just says MOA on it, and as far as I can figure is scaled for 1/2 MOA.

IMG_4033.jpg


So my question is:
To zero the scope in for a 500 yard shot, do I move the elevation about 6.5 marks to correspond the 6.6 MOAs, or do I move it about 35 marks for the 34.7 inches?
 
Now to confuse you back. That scope does not use clicks correct?

It is the friction to retain the turret knob. I have found those types to be unreliable at times after making a move.

Shoot it to confirm before you think it is good to go. That is a good idea no matter what scope you use anyway to confirm your drop table and comeups.

BH
 
yeah, it is the one that uses friction. Sounds like I need to get a new scope!

I shot the gun today at 500 yds just to do some quick confirming. Given the wind that was blowing that I didn't really account for, I was able to shoot a 4.5" group. Although there is room for improvement, it is good enough to kill a deer or elk for now.
 
I have had three Leupold scopes with the friction turrets (my 3 kids each have one on the rifles I gave them now) and they always hold zero but need to be shot several rounds to settle in after any adjustment. I don't think this scope is a good choice for someone to use in a manner where you readjust for diverse ranges. I have sighted my 30/06 in at 200 yds and shot several deer at 600 yds without scope adjustment. That is my limit, though I do realize this is not other shooters/hunters idea of long range.
 
I would suggest that you not try to dial up that style of turret. In the heat of the moment you'll likely lose your caps and what if you forget your lucky lucky range adjusting nickel. Not having the ability to re-set the dials to zero will drive you mad trying to remember was zero at 7.25moa or was 5.25moa??&%# I own a few of them and it's much quicker and easier to memorize hold overs using the duplex cross hairs.
I make up range cards using the JBM ballistic software.

http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml


270Trajectorycard.jpg



I also make hold over flash cards that help me visualize the proper hold over. These cards assume a fully mature Mule Deer with an 18" deep chest and lower 1/3 aiming height.

Duplexflashcards.jpg



Since you're using a Vari-x II, it will not have the range finding marks on the power ring. I suppose you could make a target that subtends the chest height of the animal you are hunting. (Deer 16"-18", Elk 32"-36") then from min to max power make a note at what power the animal is bracketed in the thin cross hairs. For Deer I would bracket with just the upper or lower thin wire. For Elk I would use both the upper and lower wire since they are so much bigger. With that info you can range the animal and also know how many inches your cross hairs subtend for proper hold over.
I've made clean kills out to a maximum of 575 yards using this method but that's about my personal limit and only if all things are perfect (as in no wind).

The other option would be to send the scope into Leupold for some M1 turrets.

I believe this is my first post here so hi all, I've been lurking just never posted. OK third post. I just checked.
 
Welcome to the site.

Thanks for the info on the bracketing. That seems like a pretty good thing to do, but I just don't have the time to go back and do all of that at the moment since I am heading to Oregon this Thursday.

I have already made the ballistics drop chart using LoadBase, so I do have that, paired with a quality range finder. I figure that at longer ranges, I have a little bit of time to make adjustments since it is less likely to get busted by the animal. I only will shoot big game on the run if it requires a follow-up shot. BUT if all goes according to plan, there isn't usually a need for a follow up. For now I'll just tape a nickel to the stock for quick adjusts haha. I used a Sharpie to make a little mark for my zero setting, so I will just have to remember if I make more than one revolution in adjustment. If I lose the caps, its OK, I have a spare set.


I either see a newer scope with target knobs in my future or sending this one in to Leupold to get a target turret installed.
 
If I'm not mistaken, you can put a small screwdriver in the slot in the number ring and turn the ring (not the screw) around to zero. You will have to spread it open, just enough to move it around.
 
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