Help please!

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by BenY 2013, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    So I went and shot my .308 for the 1st time today and was pretty dissapointed and need some you guys help and thoughts!
    So the gun is a Stevens 200,
    E.R. Shaw 24" Varmint contour barrel,
    The factory stock bedded and free floated,
    Custom cheek piece,
    Caldwell Bipod
    1 piece weaver rail, TPS low rings, WOTAC 4-14x50
    Shooting Winchester Super X 180gr Power points.

    So I began by swabbing the barrel out with "uncle ed's bore paste( it came with the barrel kit) a few times ran a dry patch through and began shooting. After the 1st 3 shots swabbed it out again. 5 more then another swabbing. But it won't group? Shots seem to walk some 2inches when scope is moved for 1/2in. Then something completely different? It's not very consistent at all. I am not the best shooter out there but think I'm better than this, but maybe I'm pulling the trigger and shifting the rifle..So is it me? The barrel? The barrel need better cleaning? Any thoughts?

    Oh and I would prefer if this didn't turn into an "E.R. Shaw barrels are crap thread" I know they aren't a high end barrel and knew this when I purchased it! Thanks in advance:D
     
  2. theflyonthewall

    theflyonthewall Well-Known Member

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    I'd almost bet the bank that you have an optics problem and not a gun problem. Do you have another scope that you know has performed well on another centerfire rifle? If so, take off the one that's on it now. Then check and recheck all the screws that hold the base on.

    After your sure that they are snugged down (don't strip the threads), then set the bottom of the rings in the base and check and recheck them to assure that they're tight to the base.

    Begin mounting the new scope by making SURE that the rifle is level in two directions. Both side-to-side, and front to back if your not using a canted base (20 MOA, 30 MOA, etc...Once everything is absolutely level, then CAREFULLY set the new scope into the rings. Get behind the rifle as if you were going to shoot it. Gently slide the scope forward or rearward to get the eye relief correct. Be sure that you don't bump the rifle while doing this. If you do, you'll have to re-level the rifle in both directions and try again.

    Once the eye relief is adjusted to your liking, place a small level on the top turret so that you can rotate the scope clockwise and counterclockwise to get it level with the rifle. Once it's right, then carefully proceed to placing the caps on the rings being SUPER CAREFUL not to bump the rifle or scope and cause either one to go out of level.

    Next, carefully begin tightening the screws on the ring caps. You might do some research on the proper torque sequence, but I always tighten my screws in a diagonal pattern (think of an "X"). I'll snug each screw until they are all close to being tightened, then I move to the other ring cap and begin snugging that one.

    Once they are all pretty evenly snugged, I'll go back to the screw that I started with and tighten it to the torque spec if I have one. If not, I go by feel. When I feel like it's tight, but not close to stripping the threads, I stop there. But the torque spec is the best route BY FAR, if you happen to have a torque-reading screwdriver.

    Finally, after all the tightening, recheck all the screws that you have access to to make sure you didn't skip any.

    Once this is complete, you should now have total confidence that your base isn't moving, your rings aren't moving, and your scope isn't moving. The rifle should now shoot much better than before. If it doesn't, then you'll have to move onto other things like action screw torque or action bedding.

    But I have a strong suspicion that either the scope is bad, or the mounting is. Doing all of the above will ensure that the mounting-part of the equation is correct. Once that's established, you can move on to other things in your diagnosis.
     

  3. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    Could just be a matter of breaking the barrel in too. Did you put the barrel on yourself? Maybe recheck the head spacing, and the barrel nut.

    Tank
     
  4. theflyonthewall

    theflyonthewall Well-Known Member

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    tank....the reason I jumped at the optic was when he said that moving the scope (adjusting it, I assume) was inconsistent.

    But yeah, until he reposts with more detail, it could very well be a break-in issue.
     
  5. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    I've heard the Shaw's can be rough, so my thoughts are the barrel surfaces changing with each cleaning changing his POI. Don't know if it would be that much, but you never know. Both ideas should be looked at. Nothing wrong with your hunch. That would be one of my first moves. We'll see how it works out for him first. Hopefully it is as simple as the scope.
     
  6. theflyonthewall

    theflyonthewall Well-Known Member

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    Right on. :)
     
  7. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    I will definantly check the scope and the mounts, but I think the scope is good. I had my father move the turrets while we bore sighted it and I watched the reticle and it moved along with each click. But I guess thinking back to how it acted it could be the scope.

    Also liltank what kind of break-in procedures would you reccomend? I swabbed the barrel but it may need more? I am very new to tall of this and need as much help as possible Thanks:D
     
  8. Korhil78

    Korhil78 Well-Known Member

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    Like tank said, ER Shaw barrels can be pretty rough. This is how I would break it in:

    Get the inside of that barrel as clean as you can (I use BoreTech CU+2 solvent). Then fire one round and clean the barrel. Do this sequence 10 times. Then after the tenth cleaning go to 2 rounds fired and then clean. Do this sequence 5 times. Then 3 rounds fired and then clean after every 3. Do this sequence 3 times. Then shoot 4 rounds and clean. Do this 2 times. And then 5 rounds and clean. Do the last one twice as well. Make sure on every cleaning that you are getting the inside of that barrel as clean as possible. This breaking in process helps smooth out all the tooling marks inside the barrel. You will notice that it will shoot more accurately and will clean up easier as well.
     
  9. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    Last night I gave it a very good cleaning! I won't be able to shoot until maybe tomorrow.
    When you sight in do you use bags or a bipod? I tried both and the results were pretty much the same. I checked the scope mount and all is tight and secure, may be a bad scope but I'm hoping its just the barrel needs to be broken in:rolleyes:
     
  10. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

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    Is everything from the recoil lug forward free floated, even the nut?
     
  11. Sully2

    Sully2 Well-Known Member

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    OR....just start with a better barrel to begin with.
     
  12. Korhil78

    Korhil78 Well-Known Member

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    VERY TRUE Sully but he wasn't able to or just didnt so he might as well make the best of what he has.
     
  13. BenY 2013

    BenY 2013 Well-Known Member

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    Yes it is all floated.

    And I know I could have bought a better barrel but the whole point of this build was to be a "budget build" so I could not justify dropping $400 on a better barrel! I know E.R. Shaw isn't top quality and knew it when I made the purchase!
     
  14. Korhil78

    Korhil78 Well-Known Member

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    No worries, I know plenty of people have those barrels and they shoot just fine. I would def. break it in though.